Phase 2 of my kitchen under cabinet lighting project. But has the forst set of LED strips changed colour after 2 years?
Strong Double Sided VHB Gel Tape 6mm x 2.5m @ 2mm Thick
http://r.ebay.com/kOEe3s
Strong Double Sided VHB Gel Tape 6mm x 2.5m @ 2mm Thick
http://r.ebay.com/kOEe3s
Maybe you should have added a metal backing to act as a heatsink (strips of aluminium are quite common)? The excess heat may have degraded/killed your lights. Most strips have a sticky backing tape, so you should have just glued/screwed the metal backing under the cabinets, and glued the strips onto said strips.
Could steam created by the kettle also have caused the discolouration? That's what's happened here.
hi Julian my name is Aaron, loved your video thanx for making it. I believe I know why your led Strips dimmed and the few burned out. Sadly you were not using enough power, you should have been supplying EACH led strip with 5 Amps of power. They will work with less power but it stresses them and shortens their life. I had an rgb led strip once and it started going all funny colours and dimming and burning out like yours. I got a second strip and gave it more power and it's still going strong. Hope this helps, looking forward to more videos from you.
Hi, great video!
I was wandering if you could give me a bit of advice on repairing my LED roof light bar, there is issue with 2 sets of 3 LEDs. there are a total of 60 1w leds and for some reason (probably condensation) 2 sets of 3 LEDs (one in the middle and one in the end) get dimmed. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
Another thing, when you install the heatsink. The strip should be perfectly sticked in order to transfer the heat. If there are sections that are in the air, all the heat will remain in the LED
The problem of your leds is heat. The strips are sticked to a non disipative surface. So the heat they produce is what makes them to change colour and brightness. I had had the same problem. The solution is to buy a new strip and stick to a metal surface that actuates as a heatsink. If you touch your current strip you probably will feel they are hot. When you put a heat sink, you will notice the strip cold.
There is several problems that I know about those leds, heat is one. Its trapped inside when you use those silicon ones that are waterprotected lowers life alot, a led can survive 30000+ hours if conditions are right.
LED are also easy to kill whit voltage spikes, so thats one thing to look into aswell, powersupply what voltage do i get and can i get spikes in to my LED if i use blender or some machine in the same room.
Also when using long strips there can be a voltage drop so one side is brighter then the other, in this chase its fine I think but I have some monted in my stairs and I saw that I had 1v voltage drop on that one, so now I power it from both sides.
I also use 11-11,5v insted of 12v to lower the current pass thru the LEDs.
So if you want them to last longer, consider 3 raws of LEDs but lower voltage insted, and look over that powersupply.
you can find cheap solderless connectors for 3528 and 5050 strips (2 pin) and RGB strips (4 pin) on ebay, look it up
Any chance you give tips or make some experiments to fit these on a car?
Since the engine will raise the voltage to 13,8v (and maybe higher peaks), one would need a voltage regulator?
What would you suggest? (Cool videos, by the way!)
Some of the LED strips I have gotten they don't change the resistors to match the LEDs and over time, because they are over driven, they die / change color. For the life of me I could not find a good #161 Yellow led bulb replacement, all the ones I got would get hot and slowly turn red @ 12 V. I have seen some of my white strips at work go bad, but I have a blue strip ( that I purposely fed less voltage, 11.2v instead of 12 I think ) that has been going almost 3 years. If the strip gets warm when it is running, put an adjustable power supply on it, and turn the voltage down ever so slightly and they will last alot longer. Most of the psu's with the cage on them, like the ones made by MeanWell will have a trimpot to adjust the output. I have torn some strips down and found that the corrent going to the led was way too high, on a strip like those I had a section of 3 5050 cluster leds that should have been pulling a total of 60ma pulling more like 100+ ma so each chip was being over driven by at least 10ma, which is significant when they should only be getting 20ma, that being said, they were running at about 150%, parts don't last long like that.
why have a thumb down???, that person are no learn about they watch,..
I have an rgb version of these and not had them to long but already failing. They flicker and the odd single led is on yellow if I have them set to white or if I put them to blue it goes red. Sadly it's the curse of cheap Chinese electronics.
What is the p/n on those Wago connectors, they look like a good way to go?
or an ebay/manufacture link will work also. Thank you.
really cool 🙂
I just bought 5m of these white LED strips für 3€ and 5m of RGB für 10,30€, pretty amazing 😀
Still waitng for them to arrive though 🙂
We use T5 cheapo fluorescent fittings. 4 years after fitting, two out of three have failed, but they run quite long hours, so I'm fairly pleased. Your LED strategy seems pretty good though. What's the colour rendering like compared to a triphosphor fluorescent tube?
Interesting work. I too have been using these LED strips for some time (as stairwell lighting). I can also see them flicker, but it's the entire line rather than individuals. Have you considered using the Cree XM-l emitters you explored earlier in your videos. Those things are so bright it would only take a couple to light a whole area?