Thermal management is the main problem with this 50W high power LED. After a few minutes, the 4inch square aluminium block it's mounted on is starting to get very warm. Certainly it's bright, but I'm not sure it's as bright as a 500W halogen which it's meant to replace.
By Julian
Youtuber, shed dweller, solar charge controller aficionado
Thanks for the explanation
I doubt that it is 10 times brighter . Halogen is at 20 lumen per watt and led about 100. So 50w led is 250w halogen.
Where can I get one of these?? This is the exact same one that is used in my home theater 133" projector. Its driven by 24VDC. Yes that thing will get very hot by it self. the one in projector is
A.) mounted to a very thick sink, B.) which is then mounted on a radiator system C.)then coupled to a 3 inch exhaust fan
That 50 Watt LED runs at most 80-90 lumens per watt. Halogens run about 19.2-24 Lumens per watt. That 50 Watt LED is only about as bright as a 200 Watt Halogen.
Would it be suitable to replace an UHP lamp (300-350w) used in video projectors for brighter and longer lasting light source?
Mine is only drawing 25w @ 35v ?!
It lights up, GOOD .. Camera lens on Auto-Focus, BAD .. Your test only shows it works.
Shine 50w Led at night and at a distant object, say 300 ft.
use heat sink paste on the back of the led the stuff they use on computors
now try a cree cxb 50w equivalent and become converted and and up to date. that chip is prehistoric
no sound
could you run say 4 of these in a small space if you ran them fairly soft and possibly active cooling if necessary?
If possible what driver would you recommend?
can you please tell me how to change the brightness of 50W high power led through arduino ?
I'm reading in the comments that some are using drivers that lower in wattage rating than the LEDs themselves. I'm curious as how that works without frying the driver. As an electrician, I'm accustomed to "drivers" needing to bigger or at least matched to the device that's drawing the current. To lower the current draw, I would use resistors, current limiters, rheostats, frequency modulation drives, and so on, but I as I understand how electricity works, the current drawing device don't magically want less energy because you're supply is giving it less energy. The current drawing device will overwhelm an undersized driver until the driver fails. Am I right? It's kinda like wiring a 10HP motor with 18AWG on a 50A breaker. The 18 gauge wire is going to melt almost instantly. Furthermore, putting a 500W light bulb on 300W transformer will burn up the transformer. It may take a day or three, but it's going to happen. I've seen it happen too many times. I could be wrong about LEDs because I'm just diving into the technical details of them instead of just following installation instructions. I have a 50W LED flood project where the light is totally enclosed and submerged and I have to figure out a way to keep it from burning up in minutes. Any advice would be nice.
Just add a fan and a heatsink with fins to it and it will be fine.
Illet Julian impara a fimare ,fai venire il mal di mare,nausea .