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Temporarily, I want to use the 8-cell LiFePO4 battery from my electric bike to build a small solar-powered crypto mining farm. When this battery proves itself to be hopelessly undersized, I'll put it back in the bike (where it works quite well).
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Good morning, all today, i'm going to start on making this lithium-ion phosphate 8-cell battery pack um wire it up for use in both the bicycle, because these came out of the um bicycle battery box and also for use as a solar powered lipo for life pro for Battery pack uh with crypto miner on the bench in my shed now first thing: i've noticed uh. If i look at the battery pack like that is grooves grooves grooves uh dovetails. So i want to try and take these end caps off and put them all the right way around so that at least the batteries are the same height uh. It's a pedantic thing, but i want to do it anyway.

Another thing is these: balance: leads i've used screws into a hole that i drilled in these well, they're plated, copper bus bars and they just don't stay tight and i was thinking actually. I could probably solder that ring terminal down onto this bus bar. If i can get enough heat on it, the ryobi ion should do that um and then it would just be a bit more robust. You wouldn't have that extra connection point, and also you wouldn't have this possibility of it going loose.

Um soldering on. There seems perfectly sensible, so let's take one of these off unscrew it. I think part of the problem is that the thread doesn't or peters out, uh near the head of the screw. So when you tighten it right down, it's not as tight as it is in the middle of the screw thread.

If you get what i mean, but i just fancy having to get soldering that, so i want to get rid of this blue wire anyway. So i'm just going to clip bits off as i go and it's all going to get replaced with this sort of stuff. It's all jsts. I've bought various types, nine pin these are seven pin and i don't need seven pin.

I just bought them literally to pull the wires out in case. I need them. Um just got some five pin ones in oh, i can't find them so, let's undo the big bolts now these the the guidance i mustn't touch across to one of these, because they're, probably um well they're joined up by that link there. So the guidance was there was a talk measurement that you're supposed to apply to these.

I don't have a mini torque wrench, so i'm just applying what i think is the right torque. I just want to get one of these off, get it down onto the bench on a piece of wood or something and try soldering one of these tags on. So i've just got an attachment point for my balance: lead i'm now thinking, i'm not sure it's worth soldering a connector on here a tag. Surely i could solder the balance lead straight on to here.

If i can get this hot enough, i'm just going to see if i can melt a bit of soda onto this piece of copper. Now i'm going to use the ryobi iron for this, because this gets viciously hot 480 degrees. This thing gets to and it works better with the these shards of brass or whatever they are for cleaning than a sponge, because it's so hot it just evaporates any water or any flux, pretty much instantly. So a mechanical cleaning actually works better.
So, let's see, if i can just place a blob down on there, will it actually heat that up sufficiently to flow not yet not yet i've got to get it warm still hasn't done it yet. Actually, i'm not sure this. Oh, it is up to temperature because my little lights on no hasn't grabbed it yet so it's simply a case of getting it hot enough that the metal will take and it hasn't happened yet i'll keep on it right. I couldn't get it to take, so you would have to get this extremely hot for that to flow, so i think i'll stick to a mechanical fastening, but rather than the screw.

I think i'll put a nut and bolt through there see if i can find some small nuts and bolts now i've got some nuts and bolts here and they're ancient they're, actually 6ba and 2ba, which is an old british thread, but they look about right. They're. Quite short, what i really want also are these tags there's a little tag in there, a solder tag that would be ideal really for um, attaching the balance wires. I might order some of those yeah quite like that arrangement, where the bolt and, of course, it's a slotted box, it's so ancient uh with a nut, then a tag and then another nut.

So it's offset i'll see whether i can solder onto that onto the tag. I mean that should be entirely possible right, and's up to temperature, let's clean it in the uh, the shavings yeah, i mean that's fine. I can tin that because um the heat doesn't get sucked away by that bolt. So that's a much better system.

So i'm going to go for that and if you think it sticks up a long way, well, not really any more so than the main bolt that screws into the battery. So i think that's all right. I was wondering if i could solder the bolt onto the tag and i've got solder to flow onto the the head of the bolt. It just won't flow on the tag.

So i'm just wondering if i can scrape a bit of this coating off, because it's definitely copper underneath and then get the bolts soldered on there, and then i only need the one nut, because the bolt will become effectively a stud. I shall try it right. I've scratched some of this coating off to expose the copper. Let's see if i can solder that, yes, i think that's taken now, so i've effectively got a bolt soldered to the copper bus bar, and that gives me a mounting point on the other side, where i don't have to have a screwdriver on the bolt head.

So i think that's the sort of thing that i want. That's still pretty hot right. These two are done. The bolts are soldered to the underside of these um bus bars.

They didn't quite reach actually, so i had to put a round file into the six mil hole and file. It outwards a little bit. They just seemed a little bit short, but they're done i've drilled, a couple of holes in there and that's where i'm going to pass wires through, so that my jst will end up and here's a five-way jst on the top. Now i've marked the top there with a plus careful, i don't short anything out, and i want the jst to just sort of emerge out from between two cells.
So the wires will poke down there and the jst will just sit here because eventually it will wrap around there to this side and be connected here to a jst plug which will go off to the nine pin which will make the whole pack. So let's do another one now um, so i'm going to scratch the coating off this copper using my screwdriver. That's got a broken end. I can't remember how i broke it now.

It's a bit annoying, but if i keep doing this it'll file it down and uh, perhaps restore the end so scrape that and scrape the other side like so okay, i'm going to solder another bolt into there so switch the iron on. Can you see that flashing light? You can't, can you there? It is flashing light um, wait till the iron gets up to 480 degrees and uh then apply the solder. The bolt seems to take reasonably well and the scratched copper takes reasonably well wait till that comes up to the top. Okay, that's hot uh.

I think i'll just give it a wipe in the uh shards of brass, probably not brass, because that was cheap shavings. So let's get some heat on here now and it just takes a while because it takes a while for the heat to build up on here and all i'm doing is holding it on there and then just dabbing a bit more soldering periodically, because all the flux Burns off, i could apply flux to this, but it's in the solder, so i might as well just wait and then, when you solder the other side of course, it's a lot easier because the metal work is all warm. But that does take a while to take and it's just because the temperature is not high enough uh. I think it might just be taking now uh yeah, certainly on the bolt it's taking right, we'll have a look: oh yeah, that's taken on the copper plate as well, so just give it a little bit more draw it away quickly.

Let's spin it round, it's going to be hot and have a go on the other side. That should take a lot more quickly because it's already hot can, i see um yeah, i think that's taking and flowing and running. This is the perfect iron for this, because it's ridiculously hot it will get up to 480 degrees. Interestingly, i bought the ryobi uh 20 volt iron uh.

No, this is the rivalry. Sorry, i bought the parkside one from lidl, which is incredibly cheap, uh about 12 pounds. I think this was 40 something and i will do a comparison. Video right, that's soldered turn that off now these terminals, that's the positive.

The one with the black goop is the negative they're slightly different heights, so i'm taking to putting a washer on the black one, because it's slightly further down and then this goes this way i filed these out with the round file and then my screws, my bolts, Should go in there and do up without any stress they were a bit stressed before, and i don't want to stress them otherwise, i'll end up, stressing myself good okay, that fits on there. I can just semi tighten them with this and then i'll talk them up with the wrench to well just what feels right really. So, let's do that without shorting this to anything else that feels pretty tight around and do this one nice and tight um. Okay.
These are my final positive and negative terminals. Now i'm gon na have to solder a bolt into that hole, same process scrape all the coating away, solder the bolt and then i've got mounting points for my. I found a little spanner here. It's a 5.5 and five millimeter, even though this is a 6pa nut and that comes undone and my stud is soldered onto the underside of there.

So that's not going anywhere right! Um excuse the background noise. If you can hear the minor but there's so much sun. Today, i've had to put a miner on in here all the shed miners are on now. I've taped, my balance lead onto here, but the way these are supplied, the black wire is not to the most negative.

So here it's actually the orange wire and i don't really want to shuffle these around because it means bending the barbs twice once down to get it out and once up to lock it back in again. So i'm just going to leave it and i'll mark a little minus on there with a black sharpie but yeah. If i connect this into this tester um, the most negative point is actually that orange wire, so the orange wire will go to the most negative point of this battery, which is there. So that's that connector there and yeah the colors are going to be virtually meaningless.

Now i'm going to have a fair bit of difficulty getting the wires through these holes, so i'm going to use the seven way connectors that i bought. If i can find them yes they're here, these seven way connectors uh, just pull a couple of wires out feed them through from the outside, join them up to these by just tack, soldering one to the other and then pull it through. Let's see how that goes, so the most negative is going to be that orange. So let's pass this black wire through the hole i made for that.

Yes, it's going to be like that, try and coax it at the top, which i have to order at the top. No, i probably want it at the bottom. Don't i to attach onto these so let's flip that around so that it goes the other way. Can i get it to come out not easily? Oh, it's probably because it's fouling on these wires yeah i've got to try and coax that up and out i'll play with that right with my normal soldering iron, i'm just going to tack these together will i need any fresh solder.

Yes, i will that's annoying a bit of solder on there align these again tack them together. They don't really want to join together. I think that's joined together and now i'm going to try and pull the orange through the little hole. So it goes to where i want it to go, which is there? Let's give that a go? Well, they came apart because i've got feeling these aren't tinned properly or they're tinned with unleaded, and therefore my joint just wasn't good enough.
So, let's tin them again with leaded solder and try and get them to actually join together. This time all right join together. You two because you're mucking me about okay. They join together, see if they go through that hole.

Good, so orange has gone through that hole. Uh now i'm gon na get a solder tag and i found a few of these solder tags. Although i've just placed some more in my shopping basket with cpc so that i've got a hundred or so because i think i don't really have enough of these solder tag on there now that's battery, oh most negative, that's correct! That's where this orange wire is going i'll, just angle that around so that it's roughly right for my mustn't short these two together, because they're 12 volts apart 12 volts and lots of current. So i'm not going to have it taught i'm going to push it back.

A centimeter and then cut it tin, it solder it onto there try and get a piece of heat shrink on there see how that goes. Yeah. It's worth doing this mining i've done 2.36. Today, how are we looking on the export yeah? We've got 77 77 watts going to the pylon so 77 watts of export.

It's a beautifully clear blue sky out there today, so i'm switching on as many power banks to charge as i can. Four miners going. So i'm using up almost all of the solar power coming off the roof. That's what you want to do.

You want to make best use of it. Okay, let's tin, that that's good! Our tin is a bit mucky on there, but i'll just tin. That and i've put a tiny piece of heat shrink on there, so that all looks pretty good. Let's bend that over onto there and solder it on yeah there's a little bit of jaggy on there, but i'll see.

If i can get the heat shrink around now and get it shrunk, i can't use the deflector on my heat gun, so i'm going to use the director see if that will shrink up well, i've got remember that's metal as well. Oh, this is no good. 416, watts of grid electricity being used right. Stick that there press that switch.

If i can get to it, turn the miner off, because that's i mean a cloud has just gone in front of the sun. It's only a wispy cloud, so it'll be gone soon, but i will shut that off. Come on son come back to grid export, so the next wire is this white one tack, those together and see. If i can pull it through, i've got to try and make it not tying tangle up with all of this lot right, let's solder the white one onto the battery midpoint, i think that's right slide that over and heat shrink that now, on the other side, i've Managed to pull the yellow and red wires through, so i will do the same thing with these.

Get them taut push them back a centimeter chop them. Yes, i can drop them both together. Can i because they're not connected to anything uh solder them onto the little tags, put some heat shrink on yeah? They look okay and well. That will be enough that i can put my little tester on this thing and the balancer and i will have something to play with for a day or two.
So, let's get that finished and i'll play just heat shrink, those being careful not to short the two bus bars together and the yellow one's a bit gone out of position. So i'll do the red one come back to the yellow one? Let's just reposition, yellow! It's got caught behind red right, that's uh, yellow and red, going through their little hurls. On the other side, we've got three because we've got uh white, black and orange, and i've checked the sequence and i'm fairly happy that it's all good. So i should now be able to connect my little checker and have a look at voltages so as before orange is the most negative.

Not black mustn't get confused plug that in oh and i resold it um the weather. Nine pins are along here where they went into the pcb inside this unit. Didn't look like it was very well soldered, so i resolded it because i was having those problems with um one of the cells looking low, but that's now looking pretty good. 3.34 3.35 across the board um.

That says. Ah that says it's a zero percent, because it's probably on lipo so i'll, sell that set that to whoops missed it live fee, save and now it's saying that it's 80, because it knows that it's a lithium ion phosphate. 3.34 lowest is 3.34 and that's quite hard to read but they're, all 3.34 or 3.35, and in bigger writing that one and now the sun is streaming across my desk and we won't be able to see this little display, but anyway, you've seen it. So i think i'll call it there and that's the end of this video, but i will carry on i've, got to do the same thing again on the other pack.

I've got to make a choice. Do i go for five-way connector on the other pack? That's the nice big writing. Now it's difficult to see, isn't it or do i go for a four-way? There are reasons for doing both, but anyway, i'll come back to that in another video, so cheerio.

By Julian

Youtuber, shed dweller, solar charge controller aficionado

14 thoughts on “New Balance Charge Leads for my Bike Battery”
  1. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars CambridgeMart says:

    It's worth buying a laboratory hotplate for soldering large thermal masses; they are often available for a very low price on ebay and many can do 300C

  2. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Arturs Mihelsons says:

    Yeah, these metal plates even looks like impossible to solder.. 😂 I had before connectors with similar material – only way to solder these, is rubbing it with sandpaper before..

    Other way to connect monitoring wires to these plates is with rivets.. 😉 But soldering bolts through holes looks more durable. 👍

  3. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Nick Norton says:

    I would like Solar Panels on my roof. Not sure who to approach yet without getting scammed/ripped off.

  4. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Simple Electronics says:

    Excellent! I lucked out and got some free lead-acid deep cycle batteries from the trash, with a lot of useable capacity left – or else I would be looking to do the same thing as you!

  5. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars hi-tech-guy-18 says:

    me waiting for the new MPP Soler – Waterproof Series – All in ones To come out
    – Waterproof Hybrid Series 5048WP – 6048WP [Support Grid-Tie or Off-Grid + supports stacking]
    – Waterproof Off-Grid Series 8048MAX WP [Off-Grid but supports stacking]

  6. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars bruce pickess says:

    I know you have said that you don't like mains powered irons, but a decent quality one should be quite safe. You need a good sized bit so that the heat is not drawn quickly from the bit. I bought myself a simple non temp regulating 100W iron for similar jobs and have had no problems. Nothing beats Mass and Wattage to get the job done !!!!!!!! I've just had a thought, i can't remember if you have got mains power to your modular shed.

  7. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars D M says:

    Just a thought, are the plates you are trying to solder to, chrome plated? If so the chrome oxide will inhibit the solder sticking to it. Exposing the base metal is the only way, as you showed. Thanks Julian, I enjoy your channel very much, very informative and interesting.

  8. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars The Embedded Hobbyist says:

    The problem with soldering is not the temperature your iron can get to, but the amount of energy it can convert to heat to maintain that temperature. If your iron can’t overcome the heat loss it does not matter what temperature is was at before it was placed on the metal join.

    Hence the need for 100-200W or more irons for soldering to anything that acts as a heat sink.

  9. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars pev says:

    Oh man, there are things called "spring washers" to solve the exact problem of a screw becoming loose, and it seems spring washers could have solved your problem in a second instead of all the soldering trouble you went through 🙂

  10. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Bob Carter says:

    Use a good old fashioned Weller Soldering Gun – built for soldering wires to a solid metal chassis….
    or just as a lock washer.

  11. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Space Reptile says:

    i think the coating is messing w/ you on that bar when you try to solder to it
    usually i put some deep scracthes into plates stuff where i want to solder to make it take the solder

  12. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Jax Jackson says:

    It might be easier to treat the buss bar like copper pipe. Small torch, silver solder. Should work with the nickel coating.

    For a mechanical connection, i would recommend the use of a threaded insert.

  13. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars UKHeliBob says:

    Why not connect the balance leads to a solder tag and put the tag on the actual battery connector bolt ?

    If you insist on soldering to the connector strips then at least use a large tip on the iron

  14. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars donepearce says:

    Hot air gun to get the strip hot, then the iron for the last few degrees. And a blob of flux is much better than a bit of "fresh" solder when joining those wires.

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