Good morning, all today i'm going to do some electrical wiring using all of these things. These are 16 amp plugs and sockets. Now i've got a couple of um wall mounts well, i've got a wall mounting plug and a wall mounting socket, that's the socket and i've got some cable mounting plug and socket. So again, that's the cable mounting plug with a cable, extremely for cable grip.

More likely really and this one they're not quite the same design. I couldn't quite get matching ones, but it doesn't really matter. That's the 16 amp plug. So what am i playing at here? Well, i want to have this socket mounted on the wall and wired into my consumer unit or my distribution board, thus providing a supply of electricity from the mains, and then i want a short cable and i've actually got the cable.

Oh that's annoying. I have got the cable here bear with me, because it's tangled around the wire, that's powering the camera uh. This is it and i bought this arctic cable, which is good um for use down to minus 40 degrees. It is even though this is going to be inside not outside, so i'm gon na.

I just bought a meter of it from one of those ebay companies that buys in reels of cable and then cuts it down to short lengths just for your little projects, um. So that will go between the cable mounted socket and plug and it'll be quite short, probably about 12 inches and that so there'll be a link from the mains coming out of the socket into the wall mounting plug and that will go off ultimately to my shed In the garden now also from the same company that gave me that blue three core cable, i bought this conduit, cable, so they're individual pieces of blue brown and green and yellow cable and those are going to be wired into my socket there and then go into My consumer unit, this one i'm going to use existing conduit, cable, pull it out of the consumer unit and wire it into there now. This is all connected with my rooftop solar array and recently i've had the smart meter fitted and they give you this in-home display. This is an ihd six, i believe.

Ah, the sun's come out, and so this is switched over from consuming electricity, and this tells you the rate, so i think it was tuppence per hour and now that symbol means that it's exporting electricity to the pylon. So to the grid, it's doing a grid export of well, it was 200 degrees. Now it's dropped to practically nothing. In fact, it's uh taking electricity in again uh electricity brought in is at a rate of about 18 p per kilowatt hour.

I believe so really. I want this thing to be showing grid export at all times now the house load is rather higher than normal, because i've got one of my cryptocurrency miners switched on, and this is all sort of connected solar generation. Some mechanism for intersecting the electricity going out to the shed and supplying it from a different source that will be the big uh power stations that i was sent for review and still have and really want to use and the cryptocurrency miners. So i'm trying to make it all sort of work together, but it's difficult when the sun is up and down like a yo-yo.

So i thought in this video i just take a look at the wall mounting plug and socket. So, let's take a look at the socket because that's where my electricity is first going to be uh made available i'll leave this display here. Just so, you can see how random the sun is. It's one of those days where there's it's mostly completely cloud cover but they're, just sort of breaks where the uh, where there's a bit of blue sky, odd weather, but then every day is odd weather right.

So that's! This is how it works. Um you've got the spring-loaded cover here and then we've got this peculiar arrangement which slides up inside there and presents the uh the line and neutral. I think it's called line these days not live for some reason, probably because neutral is actually live in some ways. Uh and the earth, and then the cover comes off like so so inside.

You got this thing um. This was a bit of a mystery to me at first why all these screw holes, but i understand that these can be turned around to different rotational positions and i also understand uh from viewers. Actually, so thank you for that that this means 16 amp and the 6h means that the earth pin is in the six o'clock position. So it's not at the top.

It's at the bottom. That's what i've been told so on this base plate. There is a blanking screw in grommet here and that i presume, could be replaced by a uh, a gland, a sort of cable, uh, strain relief, cable retention, type thing which i would assume would screw into there. Now it seems that this thread is intentionally rather badly matched so that that is extremely tight in there um.

You would blank this hole off on the back. Of course, if you're going to knock out this piece here and feed your wires through into whatever this was mounted to i'm, not i'm going to have wires coming out the back here, and it's going to be these um 2.5 millimeter squared now these, i believe, i'll Get my magnifying glass on this um. Yes, i believe this is seven fairly thick, solid, copper cores, so it's a stranded cable, but there are only seven strands and i've got no problem with putting that into one of these um receptacles which are inside these uh pins and tightening up the screws. Where are the screws? Oh yes, they're in there that little hole and there i'll get in a bit closer, i'm not quite sure what this camera is focusing on at the moment.

I think it might be focusing on that, but anyway, i'm going to undo this screw on the bottom, and that means we can see into the back of here. So these are the points where the uh cables will go in and then, as i say, the screws are tightened there. I was just unfortunate. I can't disassemble this because they've used these uh one-way turn screws, so they can't be undone because one side there's a sharp ridge for a flat bladed screwdriver, the other side there's a slope, so your flat bladed screwdriver, will simply slip off the sides of this screw.

So those screws can't be undone, so the idea is that you're not intended to move that. I wanted to try and extract one of these uh pin receptacles, it just doesn't seem to come, want to come any further than that. I took the little screw out and slid it out and it split into four sections and there is a little retaining clip around there spring loaded. I suppose to maintain pressure on that.

But no, i can't get that out any further it'll go back in, but it won't come out. Okay, so that's the socket receptacle um, let's take apart the wall mounting plug now works in a similar way. The cover unscrews one of the screws tighter than the other. Not quite sure why and then that slides off and here are the pins which of course fit in to the sockets.

When you insert these earth hits first, because the earth receptacle is much nearer the surface than the other two and that goes in relatively easily. And then, when line and neutral hit, it's a much tighter fit so earth relatively easy line and neutral, and then the thing closes up fully. Now, of course, you wouldn't put a wall mounting socket plugged into a wall mounting plug. That would be completely stupid.

So clearly, this one a very similar design to the socket um, the plug arrangement again has these multiple threaded holes so that this could be attached in multiple different positions. Again, they've used these one-way screws to screw this down. The grommet thing is the same here with the knockout on the back i'll undo this screw and we'll take a look at the pins and i'll see. Perhaps if i can get one of the pins out, whereas the receptacles wouldn't really come out, uh no i've taken the little screw out and although that now rotates freely, it won't come out.

So there's obviously some sort of uh retaining step in there stops it coming out and of course, i can't undo these screws. So i can't disassemble this. But again there are where my um relatively solid core seven fairly solid cores will go in and i have no problem with doing these screws up on those seven cores, because they'll just get a bit mangled, but essentially you'll get a good connection where i'm a little Bit more concerned is screwing down screws onto these. Let's take a look at these, and my guess is that those are, i think, it's 31, isn't it 31 or possibly even more strands and, of course, if you're turning a screw and these screws often don't have a completely flat bottom whoops drop that one if you're Turning that against those strands, it could tear some of the strands.

So i'm just wondering about boot lace ferrules for this, but i might have to come back to that in another video um. These pins feel solid, there's quite a weight to that. I don't think that's hollow. I mean there is a threaded hole in the end.

I'm gon na have to rotate that now until the threaded hole lines up to get that screw back in, i think that's it. Yes, that's gone in so uh. These are both back together again. This stuff, incidentally, all came from cpc farnell, which is the sort of electrical outlet for farnell electronics.

They kind of do electrical stuff, there's some electronic stuff, but they don't do components as such um. I think these wall mounting sockets were about four pounds: 50, each something in that region. The plugs are much cheaper. These are like two pounds each and i think one of them i'll, try and find it yeah this one.

This is a plug, but with a slightly different cable strain reef, there is a cable retaining arm in there which you screw up, and that retains the cable. I think this was one pound, something they are really quite cheap. They must sell them in huge volumes. Oh, i was trying to get the lid on there and uh.

Clearly i've put that the wrong way around. It doesn't go that way. It goes that way. Yes, that looks a bit more like it.

So those are the wall mounting plugs and sockets. Now, let's take a look at the cable mounting or cable end plugs and sockets. As i said, i couldn't get matching ones and these work in slightly different ways and they're quite interesting. Um.

These ones are pc e brand made in austria. Actually, interestingly, the wall mounting ones are ill me brand made in italy all european stuff um. So this is the socket obviously, and it has the cover on there and when you plug the plug in let's get the earth pins to a line. Then this shark's fin comes into play.

I'll just push that out plug that in and this cover sort of a weather cover has a little peg, which sits behind the shark's fin, so that this can only pull out a certain distance and it acts as a sort of basic retainer. I suppose, if this, if you had the wall mounting one and it was vertical, it stops this sort of gradually pulling out over time. So that's what the shark spin is for there and this one's more more of a nice shape to shark's fin. Now, in order to wire this, i have to get uh this thing open, so it says, poke a screwdriver in there to unlock it, but it is quite tricky.

It could apply a bit of turning force on there and get that thing out of the way and then this unlocks and comes off and then you have access to the line, neutral and earth screws and interesting. Interestingly, on the earth there are two screws. I wonder whether that's because they weren't on the wall mounting plugs and sockets, they only had one earth screw. I wonder if this is it's only on earth, though, so i just wondered if it was a sort of something to cope with the fact that you're putting multi-stranded cable in here, but you don't have them online in neutral - seems a little over the top to have A double screw on earth, but i suppose the earth pin is pretty important.

Uh, there's the shark spin, of course, and then the retaining top is really quite interesting. It takes a little bit of effort to get that off, because they've got these funny. Molded sticky-outy bits not entirely sure what they're, for they just make it difficult for this thing to ultimately fall off, you have to really pull it now. The interesting thing is this: cable clamp, it's um, it's molded out of two types of plastic.

You've got the solid, transparent plastic and then you've got this rubbery white plastic holding these six pieces together and they sit in these grooves and, as this thing gets pushed down into here. Of course, the white rubbery plastic. The hole closes up and gets smaller and, as you screw this down, it pushes this further and further into the housing there. But the important thing about this is it doesn't rotate.

It can't rotate because it's sitting in these - i suppose it's 12 grooves and once that gets in there there's no way that's gon na turn. Now under the lid here, there are some just very slight non-return barbs. So, as you tighten this thing up, it really does take some force to get that going. You hear it clicking as the barbs slide over the tops of those transparent plastic pieces and, as you turn this i'll make the hole visible.

The hole just closes up, but without putting any rotational force on the cable, because the last thing you want to do at this stage is twist the cable and have it all get twisted up inside this area. So it's a really novel, but this has an anti-return thing and it really is quite determined not to unscrew uh. You can't unscrew it and it sort of flicks these plastic pieces all around and then you've got to pull that off, which is, as i say. Yes, quite difficult, so i was just wondering if i undo these screws, whether i can get any of these uh pin receptacles out, but i don't think so they move around, but they don't want to push out so they're.

Obviously, press fitted. This looks like it rotates in some way. I can't quite work out how i'll have a bit more of a play with that right. I have by applying quite a lot of rotational force on that managed to get it out.

It's just a rotating click in place and i've got the pins out and they look fairly solid, although of course, they've been drilled out to take the wire - and in this case, two screws in the case of line and neutral uh, one screw, but they've all got These spring clips on them, so let's try that on a suitable plug. So yes, the spring retainer there that slides on there. Now i don't quite know how deep these go when they're in the plug, but certainly they appear to make quite a good connection between the sockets and the pins and that earth one that's a very deep recess on there, but yeah they're. Quite a nice fit um, a very large surface area, fit there really it's all about getting a good connection between your wire and the receptacle at this point, and these screws that you just rotate down onto the wire with the not so flat bottoms just feel like They're not the best way of doing this, but you're.

Obviously the easiest way of doing it right. I've got to get these back in here now and they're quite interesting. They they fit in on the outside and then they drop in place uh towards the center. So they're keyed by this big groove here so you slide it in and then it drops into place, but they all start on the outside and drop towards the center.

So i don't quite know i'm going to hold them all central. While i try and put this thing in, but let's give it a go, oh well actually looking at this, i think these veins, i suppose you could call them - are designed to slide the pin into the center and then slightly lock it in that little semi-circle there. So, let's give that a try right there in so now, can i rotate that oh yeah and lock it into place? That seems to have done it now. All i need to do is align them rotationally and put the screws back in uh four screws here because, as i say, there are two screws in this earth: uh pin and only one in each of the line and neutral yeah interesting these things um.

For a couple of quid, of course, you have to buy, i think, with cpc. You have to buy 17 pound 50 worth of goods to get the free shipping, but worth buying one of these just to take it apart and play with it. Let's watch that locking pin there lock like so and then the retaining clip um and cable grip like so so that's all back together. Let's take a look at the other one, so as i say, i couldn't find one that absolutely matched this in plug format.

So i got this one and because this gray and blue color scheme is going to work quite nicely with my blue arctic, cable, purely aesthetic, of course, uh this one's slightly different. You have to lift this flap here and it says no more than 20 degrees and then that unscrews and comes out so there are the pins. Oh, i wonder if they'll come out and the uh cable clamp mechanism on this one is a bit simpler, similar in principle, you've got the um solid pieces molded into some squishy plastic and as this is screwed down - and that must be yes, there's a uh. There's an angle in there, so these are forced together and that will grip your cable, but this one doesn't sit in immovable grooves.

It just has this very sort of sticky plastic rubber, which sits on a on a sill here, and it really doesn't want to rotate at all, but it does rely completely on friction. So, there's a slightly more chance of that rotating as you do this up than with the uh socket that i bought, but it doesn't look too bad. Okay, let's take a look at this piece yeah. I don't think this is going to come apart.

I think what they've done here just from the slightly different color blue, i think, there's an internal disc there containing all of this mechanism and an outer plastic piece, and i think the internal piece has been pushed in and there's probably a ring of uh protruding plastic On this and a inset ring on this one and that's just pressed in really hard and it clicks into place - i don't think that's going to want to come out, but again, two screws on earth on this plug and one on each of line and neutral. So looking at this cable clamp again as i turn that the clamp part doesn't seem to want to rotate, there are again small barbs in here. You can hear them clicking so that centerpiece doesn't rotate. So it's fine.

It's not going to rotate the cable and put pressure on the connections you've made in these, but i've noticed that when you undo it because of the barbs, it does have a tendency to rotate. So if you do this up and then think, oh no, i just want to tighten those connections and you undo it. The likelihood is all your connections are going to twist inside here. Yes, it's just not quite as good as the one inside here that sits in those grooves and therefore can't rotate, just not quite as good.

So now that's just the issue of putting stranded and lots of strands like i said i think it might be 30 or possibly even 60 strands into these um receptacles and turning these bolts down onto those strands i mean - maybe i'm just getting over uh concerned about This something interesting here, the the diameter of the hole in this earth pin, is quite small, smaller, i think, than the diameter of the line in neutral here. It seems to be the other way around. The diameter in the earth pin is bigger as you'd expect, because it's a broader diameter pin bigger than these two. So i'm just wondering about these boot lace ferrules, i do have some somewhere, it might take a while to find them, but let's give it a go.

Yeah, so in this angling times spools and shot box, i have some ferrules. I also have some crimp terminals, but there's quite a few ferals in here. I'm pretty sure i was given these when i became a field service engineer in 1985, so these are 35 year old, boot lace ferrules. So these orange ones seem to fit quite nicely into the line and neutral holes.

They don't fit to full depth and it seems that the little tube - and i assume it's sort of tin, plated copper assume it's. That uh has a little um, it's flanged out at the end and that's trapped into the plastic. I'm just wondering if that plastic is heat shrinkable. Will it shrink? If i heat it, i might test one, so they fit reasonably well in there the green one seems to fit reasonably well in the earth, but, like i was saying, this earth pin has a different diameter and the green one does not fit in there.

So there's going to be a bit of mucking about with this, and i mean what do you guys think? Do you think that the additional resistance i mean? I know it's going through the flat area of this. The additional resistance from the outside of this little pipe to the inside is warranted to prevent the strands from sort of twisting and tearing. If i put them straight into these receptacles and just tighten down the screws, are the ferrules going to provide a better connection and therefore less chance of heating? What i think are these critical points. I think these pins are fine they're, so huge they're not going to heat up, but these are the points where potentially you could get some heating at high current and are the ferrules going to help or are they going to hinder so first things? First, do these ferals uh heat shrink, so i'm gon na use my uh 18 volt heat gun.

Let's try that i'll use this brown one because the brown one's so big, it's not going to fit in anything. Does that plastic covering which is admittedly, 35 years old? Does it shrink uh quite clearly? No, that does not shrink to a smaller size. So there are all my 16 amp uh plugs and sockets. So now i'm gon na start making up the the short cable that goes between the wall mounted plug and the wall mounted socket um.

I will film this and if it's interesting i might show that as another video, but for this one cheerio.