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The CH340G is temporarily out of stock, so I rework the Chorizo board to use the CH340C which has a built-in crystal.
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Good morning, all an update on my usb to serial converters, the chili pepper, which uses the cp2102 cp chili pepper, get it is on its way. In fact, i've had the text from dhl, so that's literally going to turn up today tomorrow or very very soon. The territory, though, which uses the ch340 the problem was, they had no stock of the ch340 g, which was the basic part. Um they've now got three in stock um.

I did think about using the ch340n, which is a sop. Eight, an 8 pin chip which would be really cool, but they've only got four in stock um. So i think what i'm going to do is redesign that with a ch340c which is the same footprint of this uh, just without the crystal, in fact, i really don't need to redesign it. Do i i could just um, because it's a pin compatible part.

I could just plonk it straight on the board. Well i'll, have a look at that and maybe do some redesigning, but there's a gap there. So i need to sort that out. Well, i think i can do these three parts of the jigsaw puzzle.

So that's good! That'll do and we'll work on that over time, in fact, that probably be better over there, wouldn't it so here's the current stock situation with the ch340s, the g there are three well given that i'll make five boards uh, that's not enough. The c has 1419. So i think i will switch to a c now i'll need to do that in the schematic anyway, because that will define well, maybe not directly but um. I need to specify that that's the part i want fitted rather than the g, the ch340n, which is this sop 8, which i'd really like to use.

It's got rts broken out, but not dtr, so it'd be interesting to try that there are only four currently. So i might come back to that, but for the moment let's switch to the ch340c. So here's my schematic and you can see that i've got the ch340g there so i'll change that to ch340c. I'm not quite sure what pin seven and eight will be called uh.

Given that it's got a built-in crystal, maybe they're just not connected, i might as well leave the footprint for the crystal and the capacitors there, but i'll specify that they're not to be fitted. Let's take a quick look at the data sheet for the ch, 340 g c n and all the other variants here it is, and here are the variants. There's the ch340 c uh not connected for, pin, seven and pin 8 is out, so what's it sending out there. This is this is all in chinese.

I need to find an english one. Uh ch4 340 g, of course, has uh crystal in and crystal out. Maybe that's an out from the internal crystal: that's a possibility and there's the ch340n, which is only eight pins. Uh rts is broken out here, but not dtr, but i believe you can reset an arduino using rts.

Oh well, that's interesting on this data sheet. It's got the ch340c as having no connection on both pin seven and eight. So let's assume that's how it's going to be uh now dtr is on the same pin yet rts is on the same pin. So it looks like everything is the same.

V3 is the same. Everything else is the same. So it's a direct drop in replacement uh. I just need to specify it and then i can get that board put into production.
So in my schematic i'm just going to delete the ch340g and go to the library and type in ch340 uh. I need jlc pcb assembled, so that's fine! I want the ch340c let's place that there's one cancel and i'll shove it. Oh it's a slightly different width. This one that's interesting: okay, i'll have to slightly move everything around because i'll shove it there excellent i'll, just sort all these connections out.

Okay, that's all sorted and saved. Let's now go to the pcb and i'll import the changes into here there's my pcb. I think i can go one size up. Yes, i can and place it there right.

Let's import the changes, we should certainly see the ch340. Oh that's a lot of changes. Let's apply that and see what we get uh. Okay.

U1 is down here. I can drag that up into position uh. What is the position that must be five five volts there. I think that looks about it.

You know one down from there i'll sort that out okay. So this is what it looks like with the ground planes, uh visible and enabled, let's switch to the blue one. I've put a couple of ground wires in here to create this grounded island and on the top layer, this grounded island a little bit unnecessary. But it's my favorite thing to do now.

So that's that now we need to think about oh and i've temporarily, muted the board outline because it's very difficult to select the copper areas uh when they're the same position as the board outline. So, let's turn the copper areas back to invisible. That's my board. I've changed the name to chorizo c, it did say version one, but i'm gon na have it as version c now to define which chip i've used.

I might make another one with an n in due course, so let's go to building the bomb and start selecting parts for this board. Okay, i've got uh my hundred ends: oh six, oh threes, they're 104s, so uh n they're done the 22 picofarads, i'm not going to be specifying for assembly. So they don't matter. I've got a 10 microfarad here case a 3.2 by 1.6 millimeters.

So, let's assign a part for that, and here we are in capacitors, so let's narrow this down capacitors tantalum and see what we can find in here right. I can see here at the top of this list: 10 micro, farad, 3.2. 1.6. It's a basic part.

10. 16 volt that all looks good, we'll assign that one now. For some odd reason, i've got my two resistors 1k, which are the ones on the leds this one as 0805s. I'm not quite sure how that happened.

I think i'll go back and change that in the schematic update the pcb and then pick some o603s. So here they are r1 and r2. I think i'm just going to delete them and r2 delete right. Let's go to the ee lib resistor 0603 us so that should be the one i want uh rotate that shove it in that position.
R1. 1K. R2. 1K.

Save that and update the pcb. So that's done! I've got o603s for my two resistors here. Let's go back to the bom and i need to find a couple of o603 resistors i'll, probably search for them by searching for 1001, because that gets it guarantees me one percent resistors and also narrows the field a little bit. So this is the result of my search, and here we go uh o603 basic part, 1k.

1. That i think will do for those two resistors. So let's select that or at least assign it uh in my bomb. So i think that's everything now i don't need the headers.

Oh, i seem to have lost now my uh 100 ends and my 10 microfarads not sure where they went. Perhaps i didn't save it. I've lost my allocation for the red led as well i'll go through all that again off camera. So i think that's everything hundred ends don't need the 22ps 10 microfarads.

Don't need the headers red green leds. Resistors. O6031K. Ch340C.

Don't need the usb connector. I've actually got those in. I bought them on ebay, they're, not quite right, but they're, probably good enough, don't need the 12 megahertz crystal export bomb that goes down. If you can see that yeah, you probably can into my downloads folder.

Okay, that's good um! Well, while i'm at it, i guess i can export the uh pick and place file. Don't think, there's much! You need to do with that that just exports, okay, that's ready to send off for production. So that's my version of the ch340 usb to serial converter, which i've called the charizo done and sent away for production. Next, i will take a look at my pro minty, which is a bit like a pro mini but square form factor and either a minty, green or an after eight black.

But that's for the next video, so cheerio.

By Julian

Youtuber, shed dweller, solar charge controller aficionado

12 thoughts on “PCB: Preparing the Chorizo Board for Production”
  1. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars MrCalldean says:

    For whatever reason, I hated the vocoder videos – skipped most of them; this one…. most of the detail is past me, far too detailed, but I love it. Really, really enjoying the content. Thanks. 🙂

  2. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Evgeny Zislis says:

    You can update the footprint for existing parts (resistors) in-place instead of deleting and replacing them with new symbols in the schematic.

  3. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Tyler Peppy says:

    The USB pair should be routed as differential. They should be within 150 MILS of each other in legnth and you should use the differential routing tool for EasyEDA. This makes them extremely close like what could be found in a USB cable. Also avoid the vias for the D+ and D- connections as this adds minimal resistance and capacitance that in the grand scheme of things; could hinder USB performance.

  4. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars SidneyCritic ComedyHound says:

    I was just looking at a Chinese datasheet and the pins on the part were different from one page to the next, ie, annoying.

    If you have apart selected maybe you can move it with the arrow keys.

  5. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars GnuReligion says:

    I have used FreeCAD to design … and printed a number of customizable enclosures for USB things, if you are interested @Julian. Best place to make contact with you? … maybe Facebook?

  6. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars akhurash says:

    I designed a board using the C version but LCSC had this part go out of stock by the time
    I placed an order for it.

  7. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars UpLateGeek says:

    Not sure if it would make an interesting video, but do you know how to panel multiple boards in the one design?

    I've designed a modular version of BigClive's "Supercomputer", where each module is joined to its neighbour using castellated/half cut holes. They don't need to be panelled, however to keep the numbers round (and the PCBs under 10×10 cm), I designed the modules smaller than they needed to be to fill my picture frame. That means I need spacer PCBs to go around the edges, which do need to be panelled.

    There's a total of 4 different board designs to fit around the edges, and I'm thinking of using panelling and V-scoring. Three of the edges would be milled, since they'll have castellated/half cut holes to attach to the modules or each other, or need to be finished to dimension, and the fourth outside edge could be V-scored to keep them attached to the panel.

    I'm guessing you draw a line on the board outline layer with a thickness e.g. 3mm for milled slots, but I'm not sure how you'd do a V-score. Would that just be another line on the board outline layer going across the board?

    Just thought I'd ask if you think I'm on the right track. Obviously not expecting a video explaining it, but it would be interesting to see the process if you've got an idea for a project that a panelled design might be appropriate for.

    Anyway, always fun to see more work on the Choreetho/Choritzo. Can't wait to see how it turns out!

  8. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Greg McCarthy says:

    Wasn't even aware of the C. I've used the G in lots of projects. With the C about the same price as the G I might as well use that. (Save a few cents on not needing the caps and xtal)

  9. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars MrToM says:

    You don't need to follow the board outline with the copper pour(s). As long as the board fits within the pour boundary then any excess will be ignored. This makes it easier to select, especially if you have a pour on both sides….they can be completely different sizes. Also, setting the copper boundary between grid lines and not on them helps make them more visible.

  10. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Pepe The Frog says:

    Instead of usb-serial, of which everyone has a dozen at least, why dont you design a CN3722 based solar charger?
    This, with potentiometer in and output voltages and a good power-fet with good heatsink would be really usable.

  11. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars frogandspanner says:

    Choreetho or Choriso (I had my lithping Spanish 'corrected' smilingly by a Barcelona barman) not choritso.

  12. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars James Sharman says:

    I'm always a little nervous hitting that "Apply changes" button. I was thinking one of these would be able to connect my UART circuit to usb.

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