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Good morning, all spot the difference. Okay, the display data are different. That's fair enough. Both of these are showing temperature humidity and lux.

So the current light level value, but there's another difference between these, and that is this. One has a bluetooth logo and this one has a zigbee logo, so they're both wireless. They just use different wireless standards, um they're, both also cr2032 driven, there's the coin cell and uh having an e-ink display. Of course, we can take the power away.

The display keeps on showing what it was showing before so, which of these two am i gon na take apart well the bluetooth one, because i can't actually get it to work not properly anyway, i can talk to it directly from a bluetooth device. So my tablet, for example, now from a tablet, you can't talk directly to a zigbee device because tablets don't have a zigbee interface. Well, this one doesn't, but after i bought this bluetooth device by error, really, i then followed up with this rather anonymous looking box, which is a zigbee and bluetooth multimode hub, it's also wi-fi, so it has no lan connection, it's just literally powered by 5 volts. Now, that's all hooked up to the wi-fi and whatnot, and it seems that the way you connect this to this multi-mode hub is you first connect it to your phone or tablet which i've done.

You then talk to the multi-mode hub and you say: take over this device. I've got all the details of it. Take it over, but that process just doesn't work i'll, show you so in the trio smart app. Although this is actually the lidl version um, i think they fixed that thing.

When you back out, it said tap again to exit to your smart they've, updated that and fixed it. So here's my device, i've called it swe. I better tell you why i've done that for some reason, although these are both mohs devices, smart brightness, thermometer, um, one of them has under the flap modes and the other one has swe for whatever reason, so i'm identifying that by the swe. So here's julian's home.

Here's swe and it's got the little bluetooth symbol, so it was added as a bluetooth device. If i go into it and actually bluetooth not on, perhaps i should turn it on, because the data as it stands is not correct, but it doesn't give you a message saying. I have no connection. This data is historical.

Just doesn't say that right now i have a connection. All the fields are correct and if i change the light level and send that down to 20 lux that immediately shows on the screen and yes, it's following it. So it is talking to it over bluetooth. But then what you do is you go to the hub and that is the zigbee ble gateway and you add a device, but rather than add new devices, which really should say add zigbee devices you associate a bluetooth device.

There is my list of bluetooth devices that i've currently got set up, so i will select that one confirm and then we get to this add to device during the adding process. Please keep the device connected during the adding process the device will no longer used. Please wait patiently, but this always fails. It never adds the device to the hub.
So the way i see this is that you get the hub to take over the device that you initially set up through a direct bluetooth connection, but it doesn't do it. It just fails every time there it is. There seems to be no feedback from the device, please refresh and try, and it doesn't matter how many times you do it doesn't work now. Another difference, interestingly, is this one came with two little screws holding it together.

This one didn't so there's nothing holding this one together, so another reason to take apart the swe one. So let's do that now, i'm using plectra to try and get this thing apart, but it's pretty stubborn uh. How did i do that? I think i forced it down in there. Oh yes, that looks like it that looks like it's coming apart, just the top edge now right there we are so we've got a ribbon cable running to the e-ink display, which is saying zero lux, probably because when i took the battery out, i had my finger Over the lux sensor, let's take a look at the lux sensor, so that's that device there looks like a chip based sensor rather than just an ldr or something like that.

Um. Oh, that's, very nice! As seen from the rear, isn't it there's the temperature and humidity sensor out on a little arm and there's a hole here and there's also a hole in the back panel? That's that one there i'll turn it around to the right orientation and that allows airflow through the temperature and humidity sensor, and then we've got a bt-3l microcontroller and wireless system on a chip. I presume little push button switch there and there is nothing on the rear side of this board other than the luminance sensor or lux sensor. Now, as for the soc uh, can you read that it's a something lsr8250, f512 and all that other stuff? There's a 24 meg crystal there, but there's precious little else.

There isn't a lot in here the sensor down here. I can't read that very well. If you can on the higher res screen and you've done better than i have so pretty impressive stuff that this actually works for as long as it does on the power source, which is this little um cr2032 - let's put that in and see if this thing fires Back up yep, you get that uh inverting from white to black, and it's now obviously responding to changing light levels. Jolly good.

Let's put the battery cover on so yeah, not a lot in these everything system on a chip which, and the chip itself is on a board with a squiggly antenna seems to be the way. This sort of thing is going these days, so i will probably put the zigbee one in the shed. That's the zigbee one, the bluetooth one, i'm not entirely sure what to do with it because, as i say, i can't get it to work independently of the bluetooth on my phone or tablet. I might try, but all these things are about 20 pounds each they're quite expensive, but i suppose i could try an alternative brand of multi-mode, zigbee and bluetooth hub and just see whether it's this one, that's not working in conjunction with the bluetooth device.
But i might leave that for a while. I don't know yet still getting peculiar things happening. Even on this zigbee one seems to be tracking the lux value properly and the humidity, but the temperature hasn't updated and fully enough on the graphs. The temperature went from 24.2 to zero at eleven o'clock, so has it stopped receiving temperature data? From this thing, i don't know it's very strange.

I can show that the uh lux value is tracking. If i take the lux value down, that's tracking fine, but not the temperature. Now, yes, these things are just mysterious and here's another device i bought recently, which i liked it's not e-ink. It's lcd.

It's also got luminance temperature and humidity. I liked it because it's got two double a's, so lots of battery power, but this one has never reported anything other than zero. Lux temperature and humidity come over fine, zero, lux strange. So there we are more zigbee and in this case, bluetooth, sensor modules with clever power, management and uh wireless modules, but they're badly behaved and they don't work properly.

Cheerio.

By Julian

Youtuber, shed dweller, solar charge controller aficionado

11 thoughts on “Spot the Difference – Wireless Sensors”
  1. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Bob Riemersma says:

    I bought a couple of Tuya-ecosystem ZigBee devices of this type recently. One uses 2xAA, the other 2xAAA. Coin cells have severe limitations. Ahh, I see you bought one as well.

  2. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Brian Durward says:

    I think the ZigBee version would link to a zigbee2mqtt mesh network as an end device. So could be used to automate other devices using node-red for example.

  3. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Clark Mills says:

    WRT the BT hub… try pair another BT device or two and see if you can get anything to pair. That could potentially indicate where the problem is.

  4. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Julian Knight says:

    Seems like a real waste of money. I build my own sensors using ESP8266 or ESP32 (both Wi-Fi) – they simply report over MQTT. I used to write my own code but I'm switching to ESPhome which gives the ability to add some code if you need to but does a lot of the heavy lifting for you. Node-RED is used to do any clever stuff like linking together devices from different wireless systems (from Lightwave, Wi-Fi and Zigbee for example). Display is provided by web pages or some ESP's with built-in displays such as the nice (but slightly expensive) M5Stack Basic.

  5. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Jo Russ says:

    Couple of questions.
    – How do you tell the battery is gone if it's E-ink display?
    – Try to un-pair this device from phone, that gate might be looking for unpaired devices only.
    – Hello? if that's real e-ink display I'm sure you can figure out more exciting things to do with that. And you are getting pretty case for free to your new project. And that's all for $16!

  6. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars SDG Electronics says:

    I wonder if it's a permissions thing on your tablet. It must be sending the data within the BLE advertising packet, but the tablet isn't passing the Bluetooth address to the hub. Traditional pairing is unlikely to work well for ultra low power devices that need to last a long time.

  7. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars David Pumpkini says:

    Why do you support creators of the Wuhan-Virus? This is pure garbage crap with difficulties to refund because zero moral values in cheating copycat China.

  8. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Aspendell says:

    Most Bluetooth devices cannot connect to more than one master device at a time. They may not even be able to do the initial pairing if the phone's Bluetooth is already connected. So unless the App for the wireless router is disabling the phone's Bluetooth in an attempt to pair the router, it cannot succeed. Maybe try pre-pairing the router to the sensor devices without phone Bluetooth first?

  9. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars hi-tech-guy-18 says:

    Btw You Could Get a SRD for your Tablet USB OTG Port With a SRD transceiver – HackRF One – ADALM-PLUTO – LimeSDR
    However If you can get into you table or laptop /nuc you can Replace the 2.4Ghz & 5Ghz WiFi and Bluetooth card with a Fairwaves XTRX Pro uses the mini PCI-E Slot [NGFF – M.2 slot]
    XTRX Pro would be one hell of a Laptop /nuc upgrade due it has a FPGA on board so quite the little Accelerator for everything

  10. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars PicoNano says:

    What's the fun of doing DIY stuff, if you're just gonna go out and buy pre-made stuff?
    You could've made one with an ESP32, an HT-22 and a photo-resistor.
    Plenty of Wifi and BT Web server Arduino code snippets on the web, to get it done in an hour or less.
    Then you can even go nuts with all sorts of extra functionality. It'll be open source to your heart's content.

  11. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Brendan White says:

    Your description of the Bluetooth device connecting to the hub seems similar with other devices. Soma blind motors use a similar process to connect to the Soma-Connect hub. The Soma-Connect integrates to other systems like SmartThings and Home Assistant, but never talks to it properly via the app…… BlueTooth / BL connection seems a bit hit and miss still. Did you try with the sensor virtually sitting on top of the hub? The pairing for BLE seems to only be very short range, like only a few inches.

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