Hello, all today, i'm going to take a look at this. It's an accessory for uh hyundai or, i believe the chronic correct pronunciation is hyundai um, electric vehicles, specifically the ionic 5, and this is an electrical adapter for the v2l system. So that's vehicle to load, which is the system which allows you to take energy out of the electric vehicle's battery after you previously put it in. So why would you want to do that? Well, if your car is in a remote location and you need some electrically, then you can take it out um from the car using this device.

So at one end we've got standard type 2 female socket, so that goes into what would normally be the charging port. Very similar to the way it's done on my mg zs, but on this one we don't have a cable, but we do have a socket at the other end. So that's where you put your three pin uk style plug in order to power whatever device you want to power. Now there has been some criticism of this, but really only in the uk and it's because of the way our plugs work.

So you can see that that socket is embedded in there and then the idea is you lift up this cover to kind of semi-weatherproof it, but the way our plugs work, they're, always right angle and the wire comes downwards. If you plug this in - and i will plug it in when you bring and that drops down into some little rubber fins here when you bring this up, it really puts a lot of stress on the cable as it comes out of the plug. And although i can shut that, it's not really ideal, it's um looks like it was designed for well, initially, i suppose chinese plugs and then perhaps the european chuko plug - and i know you can get them with the wire comes in from the end. But i haven't seen a uk plug where the wire comes in through the back, so our plugs inevitably have this wire bent right up at right angles like that not ideal, but anyway, i'm more interested in what's inside this thing, so i'm going to take it apart.

Torx t10 screwdriver - and there are eight screws here, so let's start undoing them. I've got to be a little bit careful with this, because it's not actually mine. It's been lent to me by ev cables, who now make a vehicle to load cable for the mg, which i have one actually and they're, also going to start making vehicle to load cables for the hyundai and the kia ev6, which is essentially built on the same Platform, and by the time this video is published, those cables should be available, so i'll put a link to the website uh down below this video. Now, if you're thinking well, if this comes with the car, why would you want a cable version of this? Well, you might want one because of this um peculiar, socket problem, but also, i don't think this comes with the base models.

It only comes with the um more expensive model. So if you bought a base model, ionic, 5 or ev6, then you might want to get a cable. This is quite expensive. This cost ev cables.

I think 350 pounds something like that. It's a lot of money right. The eight screws are out so this should come apart. Do i need to take that off, which i don't think i do so, let's just take this white top cover off.

Ah okey-dokey, i think actually, that's yeah. I think i do need to take that off, because i think this plug - oh no, it doesn't that's attached to this bottom bit and everything else seems to be attached to the top bit. So i'm going to undo this screw, which i believe detaches this black type, 2 plug or socket from the gray part. Let's do that and that's it.

We are in um. We've got this section with the rubber bung and the folding cover, which i can put now to one side with all the screws and let's take a look at the electrical part. So how does this differ from the mg v2l, which i took a look at recently, and that was simply that um live neutral on earth went from the type 2 socket over to a socket suitable for plugging in an electrical plug straight direct connection. But then there also was a resistor between pp and pe e is actually earth.

So if this works in a similar way, then there must be a connection in with this uh green and yellow earth. Cable, i'm going to take the screws out for the uk style. Three pin socket here because that looks like it'll come out. There are a couple of white wires running into something here, we'll take a look at that in a moment, so undoing the two screws that appear to be holding in the uk style socket and, of course this is going to be different.

Um for units supplied to different countries, so uh on most of the continent uses shuko, so they'll have a shuco module and there appears to be a plug here. This gray thing which plugs into the country specific socket module here. Let's take a look at that. So that's the uk socket removed now there's a plug on this gray socket.

So if i try and disconnect that, but i'm also going to have to take this off so i need to undo the two screws on the back here, and this looks like a thermal switch i'll just push that through. So we can see the numbering on it. I'll come back to that in a moment, but here we've got two metallic pads, which i presume are on the metalwork for live and neutral, and so any temperature rise in this module will presumably turn off this thermal switch, and this is a seki st 22. G1.

Now it says here, 95 c, so i'm guessing that this switches off at 95 degrees celsius, but i'll look this thing up now, one of the differences between mg vehicle to load and this hyundai one is that there's a switch on the end here, and i understand That by pressing this switch once this is plugged in you're effectively telling the car start producing 240 volt mains electricity on the output here, and then you can disable that now the mg doesn't have that you have to actually get into the car and press a few Buttons on the infotainment display this one looks like you: don't need to bother. You just switch the mains on, like so or 240 volts and switch it off with that. That's a very soggy switch. It's not very distinct at all.

Now. Ev cables have obviously uh taken. This apart themselves, i know they have. I know that they're working on their version of a cable variant of this charger, so they needed to know what was going on inside here.

You can see they've broken the seal here, so i'm going to undo these four screws and take this element out six screws in total for this black plastic assembly. Up at this end, which has obviously got the switch behind it, oh and also, i think it has the little led light which comes on when this unit tells the car to start producing electricity right. This is just literally a plastic cover, so let's take that out and yeah under here. All we have is the light unit and the switch unit.

So, let's uh see if i can get those out - and this thing here just appears to be some leds - we'll get a closer look at that uh. It's the v2l power connector led module version. 8.00 looks to me, like you've, just got mains on these massive cables, which seems completely unnecessary because all it does is come in. We've got various resistors here and there's a zener diode as well.

So it looks like it's just a simple resistor dropper, three leds in series as in a diode, to create a stable voltage across those leds, but that appears to be all it is. So why are these cables so massive? I mean yes, i understand their continuations of these cables, but these could have been little tiny, thin brown and blue wires. You don't need these big fat cables um, but yes, that appears to be all that's inside this unit. So this red wire is pp.

Proximity pilot and actually helpfully they've embossed, that on the plastic there, so it looks to me, like pp, comes into this connector and then is also doubled back and goes into this big earth connector. This huge bit of heat shrink, which is longer than the two pieces of heat shrink for live and neutral. Now i believe, live in neutral, simply goes from the type 2 to this gray connector, which goes then to the country specific socket. But it's tapped off simply to go to the led light.

That's all these tappings are for, but the tapping off of earth looks a little bit more involved. You've got a red wire coming off earth and essentially going back to pp. So what at first glance looks like pp is connected directly to pe protective earth, there's a little bulge in there and i think there's more to it than that. So let's get the dmm now my dmm doesn't do the best low value resistance measurements, but what i'm going to do is measure between pp, which was that red wire and pe protective earth and see what we get there and it's 62.5 ohms.

So i suspect that linking pp to earth inside this bit of heat shrink - and i i can't cut this away because this is not my unit - is a 62 ohm resistor. So i think the schematic so far is that pp goes through a resistor to earth. Pe protective earth and on this device it's 62 ohms. Now that's for the um hyundai or the kia i'll do high stroke here.

I've not left myself enough room to show the uk socket, but that doesn't really matter too much, because that's just connected on the live earth and neutral straight through on the mg. It was a similar arrangement pp through a resistor to pe, but on the mg it was 470 ohms, and i have tried this unit on my car, my car being the mg and it doesn't work. It certainly doesn't see it as a discharge: cable, a v2l cable. So no, you can't use the hyundai kia unit on an mg, so that would be m g.

So that's it so far, but there's something else in here as well, and that is that pp runs through this thermal cut out. This thermal switch back to here on this red wire into the on off switch press for on press for off and then back through orange to cp. So let's draw that in here. So cp control pilot through the on off switch, which is this switch here and then through a thermal cut out or fuse.

I suppose you could call it what's the symbol for a fuse. Is it something like that? I think it is. This is 95 degrees c and that links back to p p so on the hyond ikea unit um, as long as you're, not above 95 c, and that would only happen if you had a really badly wired plug plugged into this generating lots of heat. The switch is on and the thermal fuse is closed.

Then you're linking cp back to pp, as well as having pp connected to pe through this 62 ohm resistor. That's the schematic not including live and neutral, going to live and neutral on your main, socket, perhaps i'll, draw that in now and that's simply uh live neutral and earth routed over to this socket here now, there's also between live and neutral. Little led board on this particular unit. There isn't on the mg cable so that this just lights up when there's power running through this.

But yes, that is essentially the schematic of the hyundai or hyundai kia, and i did go to hyundai's headquarters in seoul korea. It was about 30 years ago, part of something i was doing for work at the time, but yeah i went actually to the headquarters of hyundai and i remember thinking i'm going to remember the pronunciation of hyundai just in case it comes in useful one day and Now it has so better put this back together and return it to ev cables. Now eevee cables are making their own version of a hyundai. Sorry, hyundai kia, cable, they're doing it not as a one-piece unit but as a plug, cable and separate socket um they're, going to incorporate the switch of course, because that enables you to switch the electricity on without having to get into the car.

They also make um an mg, v2l, cable i'll, put links to both those items on their website in the description below. But let's start putting this thing back together: lots of screws down here right, that's it mostly back together. I was just looking at this to see whether um this wire came in on either any particular side, and i think it does actually because there's a little bevel just in there. So i think the wire comes in on that side.

So i'll put the thermal switch back in with the plug this grey plug into there and get the uk specific socket mounted back in the unit. Now, one of the benefits that the hyundai kia v2l has over the mg is that high end ikea gives you 16 amps at well. It's not going to be 250 volts, it'll be less than that, but the maximum power they say is 3.6 kilowatts. Now on the mg, it's only 2.2 kilowatts, so you can get a fair bit more ac mains out of the hyundai ikea.

Then you can out of the mg zs, and i'm also assuming that the schematic that i've drawn here is the same for the hyundai and the kia. Both cars are built on a common platform, it's called the egmp platform, so my guess is that they would use the same value resistor there of 62 ohms. But this is the hyundai unit. I can't absolutely guarantee the kia will be the same, but i think it probably will so big thanks to ev cables for lending me this unit.

They bought it really just to reverse engineer it so that they could make an equivalent cable, i'm just printing out actually um some interesting stuff they sent me on when they did the reverse engineering of this. They didn't have to go quite to the same extent as me and i'll show you why? Yes, so they've got this fancy piece of test equipment um which they use to test all their cables prior to sending them out to customers, and it actually did the reverse engineering for them. Because, here, with the switch not pressed, you can see the test equipment showed them a diode across live and neutral. Well, that's just the little illuminated led to tell you that the power's on, but it also showed them a 62.4 ohm resistor between pp and pe and then when the switch is pressed.

It added an additional piece of information that, as well as the resistor between pp and pe. There is a link between pp and cp and that's pretty much what my investigation also showed, and so that's. What's inside the hyundai stroke, kia, v2l, adapter cheerio.