Quite a long video where I play around with some lithium cells and a couple of ammeters.
Spongman's Arduino code with averaging: https://hastebin.com/ihamimaqem.cpp
Spongman's Arduino code with averaging: https://hastebin.com/ihamimaqem.cpp
By Julian
Youtuber, shed dweller, solar charge controller aficionado
I really like the idea of those ammeters, but them showing readings when there is no current at all flowing, and the fact that when you had the both of them connected in series showed two different readings would drive me nuts!
I wouldn't mind it if the update speed were just a bit slower, as well.
Your dealing with UtraFire cells. You have Zero Idea's what those cells are inside. Get some Real 18650 Cells. Those are Rubbish at best.
I don't remember if you did anything with that code but it seems like you could have it average like the last 5 or 10 readings I don't know how often it reads so it doesn't have to good all the way up like it did
Regarding the resistance of the bulb, from wikipedia:
The actual resistance of the filament is temperature dependent. The cold resistance of tungsten-filament lamps is about 1/15 the hot-filament resistance when the lamp is operating. For example, a 100-watt, 120-volt lamp has a resistance of 144 ohms when lit, but the cold resistance is much lower (about 9.5 ohms).
1 amp is a coulomb passing a given point in 1 second, IIRC. Also, why bother with cells that are likely to be below claimed specs?
the code you linked is down, but more important question: i have a few of those exact same oleds and the vendor doesn't have a datasheet for the driver initialization sequence, do you have any information on how to actually use them? i managed to display some text on it but ONLY if the circuit was reset via my avr programmer, not if e.g. via power-on-reset or manual triggering of the reset pin and that's really strange 😛 i guess it's because the ISP and display share some pins, but i can't figure out what my code is missing that the programmer does right by accident 😛
I wish you wouldve done this test with real 18650 cells. These results are probably meaningless because of the absolute trash cells you used.
there should be a check in the averaging code that says, if the next reading is much different from all previous, then erase the history and start a new average. of course, then you're introducing a potential bug, in the case that whatever you're doing is prone to extreme differences in reading, but you would just have to take that into account in the decision making process.
Very interesting, The only thing these "Fire" cells from E Bay are good for is receiving your money back so you get them for free, I have some yellow GIF 9900mah cells from when I didn't know better and after watching your and some other video's I've learnt quite a bit and tested them, and they range from 1 at 1200mah and yes I tested this one 3 times and the rest were the usual 500mah to 700mah. I also have had the same problem 18650 cells need a better way of determining the polarity it's ok 99% of the time but that one occasion brought a lovely pop and the wire springs melting into the plastic on the power bank I was making, but it has made it so I don't rush anymore. Great video's I really have gained a hell of a lot of knowledge from these videos, Thanks
All these Ultrafire batteries are junk. I have never had one with more than 800 mah in it. I only buy name brand cells now. Panasonic, Samsung, LG and Sanyo. Never buy Ultrafire.
After finishing this video, there are quite a few problems with it. Julian, I love your channel but this video isn't a good example of it. I'd think about taking it down, learn a little more about batteries and current flow and try again.
It's well known that ultrafire are complete rubbish. Use LG, Panasonic, or Samsung cells to do any real testing with 18650's
Hi Julian, at the moment were you mentioned the code from Spongman i became the idea that you could make more videos about codes from your community. That would be a nice type of video in my opinion. sorry for my bad engish, im from german and very bad at english.
Using "Ultrafire" and digusting "fire" names like them in a public vid is legitimizing this fake shit. Shame on you Julian!
Never buy lithium cells with the word FIRE in the branding!
thank you very much for great "Playing with Lithium Cells and Arduino Ammeters"
Nice video, could you perhaps add some links for the stuff presented ? Quite interested in the lii 300, but don't want to end up with a knock off or dodgy one