So oled is attached via SPI and nrf24l01 communicate also via SPI … I thought that atmega has only pins for one 4-wire SPI connection … what's the magic here?! … btw working on arduino based "smart" watch and also wanna add some wireless communication, but I dont know how to solve that SPI problem. Google again..
Could 2 lipo (same size) be connected in parallel and charged by the same charging module? How about 2 lipo's in series, how could that be charged using a similar module?
if this just readable display why you need so many pins why not drive OLED with attiny45. will it work?. dont know how many pins display need and can same pins use for RF
Hi Julian, I'm enjoying your videos very much and am intrigued by your wearable project. I was just wondering if you have considered a custom PCB to help integrate and shrinkify your project? Osh park is a very inexpencive fab and Kicad is a good free layout package if you're interested in that at all 🙂
Since the reset button is on the backside, it will be harder to reach. I'd probably add a button to the front. Make sure it's connected to INT0 or 1 so it can wake the AVR when in sleep mode. I'd also remove the power indicator led. I wonder how efficient the voltage regulator is. You definitely wouldn't want to use one of those voltage adjustable pro-minis you got recently.
I'm currently working on a nrf24l01 connected sensor board powered by a single coin cell. So low power sleep mode is definitely a must here. If you need some help with some sleep code, just let me know.
Can someone help me.. I bought an Arduino Pro Mini from eBay and it seems to work but the micro get's VERY hot after a few seconds and all I'm doing is blinking the LED. I don't know what could be wrong. I'm powering it from 5V USB. Sorry to ask this here but I thought maybe someone could help me. 🙂
You need flux!
So oled is attached via SPI and nrf24l01 communicate also via SPI … I thought that atmega has only pins for one 4-wire SPI connection … what's the magic here?! … btw working on arduino based "smart" watch and also wanna add some wireless communication, but I dont know how to solve that SPI problem. Google again..
Could 2 lipo (same size) be connected in parallel and charged by the same charging module? How about 2 lipo's in series, how could that be charged using a similar module?
if this just readable display why you need so many pins why not drive OLED with attiny45. will it work?. dont know how many pins display need and can same pins use for RF
Hi Julian,
I'm enjoying your videos very much and am intrigued by your wearable project. I was just wondering if you have considered a custom PCB to help integrate and shrinkify your project? Osh park is a very inexpencive fab and Kicad is a good free layout package if you're interested in that at all 🙂
Since the reset button is on the backside, it will be harder to reach. I'd probably add a button to the front. Make sure it's connected to INT0 or 1 so it can wake the AVR when in sleep mode. I'd also remove the power indicator led. I wonder how efficient the voltage regulator is. You definitely wouldn't want to use one of those voltage adjustable pro-minis you got recently.
I'm currently working on a nrf24l01 connected sensor board powered by a single coin cell. So low power sleep mode is definitely a must here. If you need some help with some sleep code, just let me know.
Can someone help me.. I bought an Arduino Pro Mini from eBay and it seems to work but the micro get's VERY hot after a few seconds and all I'm doing is blinking the LED. I don't know what could be wrong. I'm powering it from 5V USB. Sorry to ask this here but I thought maybe someone could help me. 🙂
Excellent video dear mate. You are very close to complete the nice project. Great work. Regards,
Hi,
What should be the resistor value to charge that 600mAh battery with that charger/protection board?
Cool project. I like to watch these videos a lot. Great job