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Lots of ruminating about LED voltmeters and ammeters. Some soldering and heat shrinking. Some idiocy resulting in lots of smoke, and a final revelation about the ammeter wiring. Enjoy (it's a long one).
Interested in my new garden workshop? Follow the entire build on Julian's Shednanigans:
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCXfDjPehpC7B7lW2JFxeS4w
Subscribed to my other electronics channel (Julian's Shorts)? It's where I put all my short videos:
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCeewzdnwcY5Q6gcbnZKIY8g
Any questions about JLCPCB or ordering, pls email support @jlcpcb.com
Lots of ruminating about LED voltmeters and ammeters. Some soldering and heat shrinking. Some idiocy resulting in lots of smoke, and a final revelation about the ammeter wiring. Enjoy (it's a long one).
Interested in my new garden workshop? Follow the entire build on Julian's Shednanigans:
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCXfDjPehpC7B7lW2JFxeS4w
Subscribed to my other electronics channel (Julian's Shorts)? It's where I put all my short videos:
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCeewzdnwcY5Q6gcbnZKIY8g
Moral of this video? RTFM! The thick yellow wire is the supply voltage reading for the load, and the thick red wire is for current measurement of the load.
Isn't this working as it should? You put the load inline in either positive or negative (negative in this case) and the other line goes directly to the meter? I wouldn't say it's a fake.
Yes, crimping sucks. Take solder anytime.
the current does not show anything because you only connected the negative solar without the + solar wire, this is on the last art of the video lol
those meters usually have a zero ohm resistor linking the grounds, which you can remove if you want isolation, provided you don't exceed the common mode range of course.
I'd like to see what's under the insulation on those "heat treated" wires. Did some of the strands melt, turning them into solid-core?
I also have one of those volt/ammmeters and I noticed, you do not need to connect thin red wire to power it. It can feed from voltage it is supposed to measure. Only disadvantage is you cannot measure voltages under 4 or so volts, because it is not enough to power up the thing. So not a big deal in this case.
I got one of these and it, similar to yours, did not measure current. Why? It turned out the unit did not have a current shunt installed on the board. Why? I guess because they sent me a wrong version intended to go with an external shunt. So they have a version with a shunt for 10A and another version without shunt as the shunt is external for various max current – say 50A, 100A etc. Not enough quality control but for these prices we can't expect more, I guess. Plus, the current you were measuring most likely was some arbitrary value.
You should totally use a P-channel FET, some of your supercaps, and a string of red LEDs to make an automatic "emergency light" in case the power should be cut to the lighting circuit again. 😁
Who let the smoke out! Who, who, who let the smoke out! Ha-ha I'm glad to see I'm not the only one! Ha-ha
It always annoys me when Julian keeps pointing at things using his middle finger. Very irrational feeling.
that because they ment for monitoering loads not incomming i have serrched all over and can not find a bi doirectional one also you wont the load on the same place as power in so you can see exactly whats going into the battery
It isn't unconventional once you consider that your measurements are the output of the outside battery not the input of the inside battery.