Buck/boost converter with 4x TO220 devices surrounding an inductor. But it's not a LT3780.
5V-30V To 1.25-30V Automatic Step-Up/Down Boost Buck CVCC Power Supply Module 8A #Module https://ebay.us/XeEM6z
5V-30V To 1.25-30V Automatic Step-Up/Down Boost Buck CVCC Power Supply Module 8A #Module https://ebay.us/XeEM6z
Hi newbie
I have 3 good 3.5v 40ah cells
Could I use a buck booster to get 12.6v to run a camp fridge etc max would be 10a
Or would it run down battery quickly
Thanks
please could you tell me where you e
ordered your red flashing on your wall thank you
3 amps at 24 volts requires about 6.5 amps at 12 volts in…….
Watts in = watts out / efficiency of converter
I take all my old broken cheap probes and solder Dupont pins to them. Add some heat shrink to stiffen them up a bit and they're perfect. Also, a set with alligator clips just in case. 😉
I spent a good chunk of time doing research on this chip on my own, and found that it's a knockoff of the LTC1775, a no r-sense current mode buck converter for high current applications. One of the application circuits is a buck boost converter using three FETs and one diode, same as the circuit!
Additionally there is actually one op amp, hidden under the inductor if I remember correctly. A63A is the number on it.
This "constant current" setting is definitively not working. I don't understand, because it is so easy to implement this function to each kind of buck / boost converter.
Can't hear the high pitch as the audio quality is like that of a 64KBps WMA file.
Good on the ears….
Also, would've been great if the manufacturer hadn't filed off the part number….
What happens if you wanted to go from prototype to final product using their module as the basis?
The blinking LEDs are really distracting.
SOOOO MANY people get confused by CC CV supplies, and I'm not sure why BUT, here's the answer – What you are ACTUALLY setting is the MAXIMUM current allowed and the MAXIMUM voltage allowed. If the load is varying but the current drawn is BELOW the limit then whatever current is required will flow. When the current tries to increase above the maximum set then the Voltage will drop to maintain operation within the Safe Operating Area of the supply and the current will be limited to what has been set.
1. Setting a "constant" voltage MUST be done OPEN circuit NOT when the circuit to be powered is actually switched ON and drawing current – erroneous setup or "finger trouble" results otherwise
2. Setting the "constant" current is done when the output is a SHORT circuit, OR (If you don't trust your supply) by ensuring a load guaranteed to pull AT LEAST that current. Same thing, BAD setup or "finger trouble" results
If you have set your current "limit" (CC) then NO HARM WILL COME TO YOUR SUPPLY AT ALL. It can ONLY supply the current you have set IRRESPECTIVE of WHATEVER Voltage has been set. The output volts will DROP automatically to supply the current you selected into the load. It is unbelievable the number of people who get this SO muddled, partly, I suspect, it may come from experience with LINEAR supplies of certain designs that ARE sensitive to excess POWER dissipation under extended short circuit, ESPECIALLY when on the high voltage setting! This is because of the way they work intrinsically and NOTHING to do with the correct setup
Under these conditions (as for a battery being charged) the CC CV should be treated as a MAX Volts and MAX current setting respectively. Ohms law will STILL apply – 0 volts will be on the output for a short circuit even with the rated amps flowing (Super Cap at charge start). The problem is that the "load" resistance is effectively changing during use as a CHARGE circuit and under such conditions, there can be NO concept of a "constant" anything! Everything will be in a state of flux. The voltage will be zero (even if set at say 12v) and the current will be the MAXIMUM set until the tipping point is reached (MAX volts setting) when the current will be AT the current limit and gradually drop as the load decreases (the Cap or battery fills up)
If you have a 5v output supply charging a capacitor of ANY value, at zero initial charge, the current will be high (the max allowed by CC) and as the capacitor charges the voltage across it rises to its max (CV) and the current will fall. When charging batteries, the initial voltage won't be zero, but again, depending on the state of charge, the current may be at the maximum level set CC and then it will drop while the voltage will be below the final expected level (CV set point) until the charge level has increased to the point where it has reached the MAX volts (CV set level)
IMPORTANT: You should ALWAYS do 1 & 2 above IN ORDER and ensure your MAXIMUM charge voltage and MAXIMUM charge current are set at the output BEFORE you connect your charge load. NEVER change their values during charging otherwise your charging procedure will NOT be correct and you may well blow caps or batteries as a consequence!
Who would package electronics under an inductor? You shouldn't even run traces under them
Thank You for the magnets on the light bulb trick! That's awesome, Julian!
Lets be honest you don't need CATIII cables on 12V stuff