Wiring the charge controller and daylight switch.

By Julian

Youtuber, shed dweller, solar charge controller aficionado

16 thoughts on “Build a monster bright 30w led garden solar light #3”
  1. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Simon Chapman says:

    Good. I gave up when I couldn't.

  2. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Robert Carman Sr. says:

    How large of a solar panel do I need to charge my 9 volt battery for my 3 10 mm led garden light

  3. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Hola! Mike Hale says:

    lol, with you

  4. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars James Holbrook says:

    dont know why you used 2 pieces of wire for changing current when you can unscrew the other side

  5. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Hayd says:

    Looking good, but shouldn't it be weatherproof? Bare electronics outdoors?!

  6. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Funny1048 says:

    can you connect the switch and led directly to the battery instead of the load of the charge controller

  7. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars caleb ponder says:

    In so Cal we call um roach clips for somkin the last bit of your blunt or joint more roaches here than gators

  8. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Ted Vetzal says:

    On another note, are they using the 555 as a timer to prevent the light switch from oscillating in lower light? I have one set of AC powered garden lights, that have an inline photo, after the wall wart, which sits there and oscillates at dusk, causing the flickering of the lights and I'm sure limiting the life of the light switch.
    BTW, do you have a listing of the parts?

  9. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Ted Vetzal says:

    Funny how that over there, they are croc clamps and here in Canada, they are alligator clamp….. (Especially since neither of our countries are home to these beasts!). ;o)

  10. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars largerification says:

    Hello, with all my respect, I think you are wrong. You need a different light sensor, one that has both NO and NC contacts. This would allow you to dump excessive power to a dump load (55w car headlight) under sunlight while at night- power up your LED.
    The headlight will also serve as "Battery charged" indicator.

  11. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars thebigrig01 says:

    In ac black is your line and red is your switch leg

  12. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars King Red Leg says:

    Do you mean to tell me that I am not the only person to forget to put all the pieces on before soldering wires together.  Julian we should form a support group.

  13. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Rob NAustin says:

    You Tube unsubscribed me. I have read this happened to others  but the glitch got me this time. Thank goodness for firefox history!

  14. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars zapro_dk says:

    Did you solder on the wire ends going into the wire terminal? That's a recipe for disaster, as the solder cold-flows, and you will end up with a bad connection.

  15. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Rob NAustin says:

    I also have been looking for a larger ga 2.1mm plug. Care to share the link to the Scottish seller on ebay?  Thanks again and congrats on the 10K!!!!!!!!!

  16. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Cool Joule says:

    why not use a Bedini solid state CPD mod to charge the battery and a joule ringer to light a different led, they have actual bulbs that will provide more light and work very nicely w/ the joule ringer…
    anyway – this is a good conventional type project. I commend you on your tenacity it's so pedantic 🙂

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