On another note, are they using the 555 as a timer to prevent the light switch from oscillating in lower light? I have one set of AC powered garden lights, that have an inline photo, after the wall wart, which sits there and oscillates at dusk, causing the flickering of the lights and I'm sure limiting the life of the light switch. BTW, do you have a listing of the parts?
Funny how that over there, they are croc clamps and here in Canada, they are alligator clamp….. (Especially since neither of our countries are home to these beasts!). ;o)
Hello, with all my respect, I think you are wrong. You need a different light sensor, one that has both NO and NC contacts. This would allow you to dump excessive power to a dump load (55w car headlight) under sunlight while at night- power up your LED. The headlight will also serve as "Battery charged" indicator.
Do you mean to tell me that I am not the only person to forget to put all the pieces on before soldering wires together. Julian we should form a support group.
Did you solder on the wire ends going into the wire terminal? That's a recipe for disaster, as the solder cold-flows, and you will end up with a bad connection.
I also have been looking for a larger ga 2.1mm plug. Care to share the link to the Scottish seller on ebay? Thanks again and congrats on the 10K!!!!!!!!!
why not use a Bedini solid state CPD mod to charge the battery and a joule ringer to light a different led, they have actual bulbs that will provide more light and work very nicely w/ the joule ringer… anyway – this is a good conventional type project. I commend you on your tenacity it's so pedantic 🙂
Good. I gave up when I couldn't.
How large of a solar panel do I need to charge my 9 volt battery for my 3 10 mm led garden light
lol, with you
dont know why you used 2 pieces of wire for changing current when you can unscrew the other side
Looking good, but shouldn't it be weatherproof? Bare electronics outdoors?!
can you connect the switch and led directly to the battery instead of the load of the charge controller
In so Cal we call um roach clips for somkin the last bit of your blunt or joint more roaches here than gators
On another note, are they using the 555 as a timer to prevent the light switch from oscillating in lower light? I have one set of AC powered garden lights, that have an inline photo, after the wall wart, which sits there and oscillates at dusk, causing the flickering of the lights and I'm sure limiting the life of the light switch.
BTW, do you have a listing of the parts?
Funny how that over there, they are croc clamps and here in Canada, they are alligator clamp….. (Especially since neither of our countries are home to these beasts!). ;o)
Hello, with all my respect, I think you are wrong. You need a different light sensor, one that has both NO and NC contacts. This would allow you to dump excessive power to a dump load (55w car headlight) under sunlight while at night- power up your LED.
The headlight will also serve as "Battery charged" indicator.
In ac black is your line and red is your switch leg
Do you mean to tell me that I am not the only person to forget to put all the pieces on before soldering wires together. Julian we should form a support group.
You Tube unsubscribed me. I have read this happened to others but the glitch got me this time. Thank goodness for firefox history!
Did you solder on the wire ends going into the wire terminal? That's a recipe for disaster, as the solder cold-flows, and you will end up with a bad connection.
I also have been looking for a larger ga 2.1mm plug. Care to share the link to the Scottish seller on ebay? Thanks again and congrats on the 10K!!!!!!!!!
why not use a Bedini solid state CPD mod to charge the battery and a joule ringer to light a different led, they have actual bulbs that will provide more light and work very nicely w/ the joule ringer…
anyway – this is a good conventional type project. I commend you on your tenacity it's so pedantic 🙂