$2 for 5PCBs - order with coupon code: JLCPCBcom
Any questions about JLCPCB or ordering, pls email support @jlcpcb.com
How can you make a cheap cigar plug (12V accessory plug) conduct 10A continuously without melting. Not like this!
Interested in my new garden workshop? Follow the entire build on Julian's Shednanigans:
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCXfDjPehpC7B7lW2JFxeS4w
Subscribed to my 2nd channel? Watch all my 3 minute videos on Julian's Shorts: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCeewzdnwcY5Q6gcbnZKIY8g
Join me on Odysee/LBRY: https://lbry.tv/$/invite/ @julian256:d
Any questions about JLCPCB or ordering, pls email support @jlcpcb.com
How can you make a cheap cigar plug (12V accessory plug) conduct 10A continuously without melting. Not like this!
Interested in my new garden workshop? Follow the entire build on Julian's Shednanigans:
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCXfDjPehpC7B7lW2JFxeS4w
Subscribed to my 2nd channel? Watch all my 3 minute videos on Julian's Shorts: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCeewzdnwcY5Q6gcbnZKIY8g
Join me on Odysee/LBRY: https://lbry.tv/$/invite/ @julian256:d
Too much current and not enough contact area=Thermal runaway.
Wondering why noting that there was reduced power draw with the cutoff device inserted didn't give a 'hmmmmmmm moment'.. 🙂
Your solder wick has no flux. Did you use it with flux or dry?
I've just dismantled a car USB 3.0 charger that blew the 20A fuse in the car; it turns out that the +ve connection is a turned metal part that connects to the PCB via a spring; the spring isn't retained on the PCB, but is threaded through a piece of metal soldered to the PCB. In order to save space, the designer put an electrolytic cap directly behind the piece of metal such that, if the spring rotated, it threaded further into the metal plate and contacted the capacitor; eventually, it split the sleeve on the cap and contacted the metal case which is not isolated, and shorted the 12V supply.
The quick fix was to cut a small piece of Mylar and put it between the cap and the metal piece so that the spring cannot contact the cap.
So much cheap and dangerous 12v items have flooded the market everywhere. I had a friend who bought a cigarette socket adapter that melted only charging a phone, as a result burnt his vehicle out.
Greetings Mr.Julian, I wanted to know what your thoughts were on this little guy here I found on ebay from seller Frentaly: [Apparently I Youtube won't let me comment with links]
Fully Assembled DSO138 2.4" TFT Digital Oscilloscope by seller Frentaly
I would like to have my own full sized oscilloscope but the price tag is a bit of a deterrent at the moment and I happened to stumble across this one here so I got it to see if I can make heads or tails of some toys I'm tinkering with. It seems to work well enough but I'm no expert so I thought I'd ask someone I think would know!
I’ve got, err, had a plug like that. I would rate it at only 2A maximum. And yes, the problem is the steel spring.
Julian, if you shorten the spring – that would reduce the resistance and the tension. That is my hypothesis.
10A destruction on a chinesium automotive plug is expected. nothing new.
Run the copper wick thru the spring but, solder 1 end directly to the terminal or wire and solder the other end to a small washer between the spring and fuse.
–
tldr: Give the current another path to travel besides the spring.
The solder wick wrapping around the spring ends made the spring too long? Try soldering the wick to the inside of the spring (maybe where the spring wire ends). Try to keep the solder to the first two coils of the spring where there isn't any/much springyness. Then, trim the wick flush with the spring and smooth up the spring ends. Might be a good idea to loosen the wick braiding to break the dry flux where it's not soldered to the spring.
On mine usually the spring probably heats up and shrinks compressed so it stays short
It's possible that the heat was actually being generated in the fuse and being transferred to the spring (need to bring out your thermal camera).
I've never had any luck with these types of plugs from electronics type stores and eBay, but the ones that I've purchased from Car parts stores have been great, they are much sturdier and made with higher quality parts, which also makes them a bit bigger.
I've had this happen before as well. Apparently there was still some current traveling through the spring. I don't know if taking something like the ends of a fuse and putting it over the ends of the spring and soldering the braid to it will work or not.
after seeing Clive using braid (wick) I got some from Ali but it also fails
I got those same cheap plugs. I got the same melting problem.