JLCPCB Prototype for $2(Any Color): https://jlcpcb.com
Building a simple 4S1P lithium ion pack using the Vruzend 1.6 battery building kit.
NEW! Vruzend V1.6 DIY Solderless 18650 Battery Holder No Spot Weld Colour Coded #Vruzend https://ebay.us/eadxL3
Building a simple 4S1P lithium ion pack using the Vruzend 1.6 battery building kit.
NEW! Vruzend V1.6 DIY Solderless 18650 Battery Holder No Spot Weld Colour Coded #Vruzend https://ebay.us/eadxL3
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Perfect for making a battery back for a portable Bluetooth speaker. Shame I can't buy less than a quarter kit. I only need 24v max, unless I build a much longer lasting pack.
Purchased kit. What a waste of money. Parts do not stay together while constructing battery arrangement. Contacts to battery ends problematic. The entire process is far more time consuming then this video makes it seem. Nice idea…but in real life a major failure…
I need those without these Plates. I want fuses attached by the nut between the screw of the battery and the cable. Is it possible to buy something like this but only the caps?
HI DEAR HOW CAN PURCHASE THIS FROM INDIA.?
Speed of up please
We're can I buy please tell me pretty .
Try Version 2!
While this product is expensive, I really love the idea of these types of systems. Where you can add cells easily and put it together without any soldering. Because I really hate trying to solder something on top of an 18650, you need a really high power soldering iron and I am always worried about the heat getting into the cell during the process. Plus if you ever have a problem you have to desolder and those self made packs usually look like a mess.
I like the idea of these packing system where it uses bolts and screws etc. This makes it easier to put together, plus it makes it easier to replace and also means you don't have to worry about damaging the cell with heat from a soldering iron.
But my most favourite and easy way so far are these empty power banks that you can buy from China, all you have to do is put 8 18650's inside and the system has built in balancing and charging etc and USB ports for output. I use this power bank to power the light in my room, it can run my room light for around 30 hours straight before it runs out. It usually lasts around 5 nights until I have to recharge it. That's a decent enough time for me that I don't consider it impractical. It then charges on a high power USB socket from my inverter, generally it takes around 10 hours to charge. So basically a full day if you get it on there very early.
Now the above system in your video though is superior to those 8×18650 power banks that I mentioned in one way, with the system in your video it's possibly to make a large power banks. Such as easily 20+ cells.
Meaning you can easily put together a 200+ watt hour system.
AMD now make new APU's (CPU+GPU system) which only use a max of 35w in load. Thus it's more like 20w in regular use on average, combined with other components you need for the computer it's possible to put together a reasonably competent computer that only uses a max of 55w at load (or more like 40w on average overall).
With such a system you would use those DC-DC CPU power supplies, this connects to the 24 pin socket on the motherboard and has the CPU power connector also. You can get small ones of these with 120w capabilities and they are highly efficient, this would be perfect for the computer in question.
Then you just connect the other side of that DC-DC power supply to the lithium battery pack. This is my goal, to build this system.
I probably won't buy the expensive Panasonic high capacity cells (even though they are the best). But I will settle on more common cells with capacities around 2500mAh.
And basically all you have to do is get around 48 of these batteries and build the battery pack. This should give you around a 444 watt hour battery, which in theory could run this computer for around 11 hours before needing recharging. But it's safer to assume 10 hours when taking into conversions and inefficiencies. That's still a good run time.
Of a day time you would connect it just to the output wires from your charge controller, and let the remainder solar power charge the battery pack up. Then of a night time flick a switch over for the computer to be powered by the battery pack.
I like the idea of this. There is only one power conversion done in this system and the conversions are very close to each other in voltage anyway and it's DC-DC.
Yet people who run their computer from an inverter are doing crazy conversions and losses, first their battery is converted from around 12v to 240v (or whatever your country uses), then that is plugged into a computer power supply which then takes that 240v and converts it back down to 12v. Thus you are converting it up and down hugely twice and also going from DC to AC and AC back to DC. Expecting power losses of up to 30-40% in such a setup is typical of this poor setup.
That's why going with a DC-DC system and forgetting high voltage AC is the way to go with powering your computer.
This system is my goal, if I ever have enough spare time to make it I will upload it to my other youtube channel.
Why nickel strips? Is it easier to spot-weld?
Rather than grinding, make soft metal disks thicker than the pips?
Hello
I bought a QD 188 with usb c out/in fast charge input 5V-20V Output
4-24V Thought you might want to review it.