Good afternoon. All it's post bag, single item, post bag. uh, this one because it's quite complicated so uh, it'll take a while to show. Uh, this came from AliExpress uh via Ireland it would seem never quite understood how these things get here from China But yeah, okay. I'm in. Let's see what it is and it's this. It's a battery capacity DC Power detector uh, zero to 300 volts, zero to 100 amps. that's 3 000 Watts There's a little reset button there or a display select button uh on the back, some large screws and oh, what are those called? Oh no, this is not what I thought it was I thought it was one of those um, pull-in receptacle things, but this is just simply a bolt screwing down onto a copper base. Um, yes, so not one of those I can't remember the name of them now. I'm trying to work out how to get the back off this thing and it seems that these uh, panel mount clips are part of the back plate. so by Levering them off I do seem to be removing the back plate so that's good and this is what's inside now. you may, uh, be thinking yes, that's a very familiar looking LCD And there's the ribbon cable into the ribbon cable connector. Yes, that looks very much like the one on this device which was in my shed in my last video and no longer works. and I think it's the LCD new LCD I'm just going to steal it off this device. but anyway, this video is really about this device. Now you can see that unlike this one here, the specs are very similar. They're 300 volts maximum 100 amps maximum. Oh, where's the shunt for this? Then where's the 100 amps shunt? Oh, it's not. That is it that set of resistors there? Let's get in a bit closer. Yes, I think it is. Now these are our 001. So is that um, a hundredth of a gnome? 10 milliohms, four of them in parallel. But is that going to take a hundred amps? I don't know I Mean if you look at the shunt on this one, it's these four massive pieces of copper that looks a bit more like 100 amps to me than these surface mount resistors. Nevertheless, that's the spec on this thing now. I Think this is a bit short changed. Uh, just having three connectors here. Yes, um, these two positives would be just common. Are they actually connected together? Yes, they probably are. You can see, uh, some tinned copper across there, which links that area to this area of fires. so these are just connected together. So yes, you can use a common terminal for that and it saves money. I Suppose having three rather than four. Um, now I need to look at this because it says on here. Um, what does it say? Yeah, n and L you've got two L's and an N and another N up there. I Mean is that live and neutral? That's just Daft Isn't it? Because this is DC Um, But anyway, this shows that uh, that is the in that's V out. hence the shunt across therefore current measurement and this is the positive V in. So let's put 12 volts on this thing and watch it fire up right? Let's connect to that that's positive to the L negative to the n. Uh, nothing. Why is that not? Why is that not doing anything? Uh, let's try the other one a minute, right? Positive down there negative up there. Yeah, well, that works. Um, and it beeps. So my 12 volts is all right. So what's wrong with this thing? Let's try it again. Well, this doesn't work. Um, now did I reverse polarity? I Think I did reverse polarity it. But it shouldn't really matter because there are numerous diodes around here which should have protected against reverse polarity. I don't really mind that much I do have another of these coming so I can still do this post bag on the other one I just saw another one and I thought, well that'll do. but now I'm inclined to see if I can use the display from this one to fix this one because this is going back in the shed and I want to use this board because well, a it's got four connection points and I've got four wires. Um, so really I just want the display from this hooked up to this so now you can probably see I've already done this. but uh, the trick is to get the display off there pushed into this connector and then see if this board works using that display. So let's do that right. I've got the ribbon cable of the display to reach into the connector on my old board. Now I'm going to use this seven point whatever volts it is to power up the old board. so I'll do that like that the polarity can't be wrong because I know this will work because I've done it. One of my batteries is out so I'll put it back in that powers up and we have the display. Now there's no backlight because that's coming off this other module with the backlight. No, that's actually under program control because now the button's underneath. but I can just press down on the board. Um, to fire this up. The backlight's actually on on this board because this is powered up with 7.2 volts. but now I can flick through the screens. Let's tip that up. so that's the one where the backlight is on. and if you hold it, hold the button then it's scanning all the way down from on down through 59 seconds down to off backlight off. Now I think if you double click, it's gone up to one second and I think now if you hold it, it's now incrementing I hope you can see that and I'll just keep holding it until it gets up to backlight on release. And now a single press will take me to the next screen. And now there are I don't know what that is greater than 160 volts. Uh, less than zero volts. That's probably what was making the alarm sound. In fact, I could probably test that. Um, press and hold. No, that's immediately you've gone to another screen. That's probably because the the thing bounced. So press and hold. is it on that? Oh, that's counting up. So now it's less than 0.7 volts. Uh, no. it must have been higher than that. This one says an alarm greater than 29 amps. So we're not worried about that because I can't really test amps at the moment. Ah, now it is. Oh yes, because it's the measured voltage across the two input terminals that it's measuring. So it probably is less than 0.7 volts. Now we have that alarm. If I press and hold that can I that's an alert. Oh, I'm probably not on the screen for changing that. So let's go back to that. That's the backlight on. That's the greater than 160 volt alert. That's the less than now. If I press and hold on that, that's going up. I Think if you double click and hold, no, that's still going up treble click to go down and hold. That's now going all the way down. Less than zero volts. Change screen to save it and that should eliminate the beeping. Um, because it's detecting that there's less than so many volts on the input. So yeah, that kind of fixes that. The point is, however, what I really want which is the LCD works on this one? I'm not sure whether the module Works ever did work or whether perhaps I killed it. Who knows? it doesn't really matter. like I say I'm just stealing the LCD from this one. So I now need to get it off there and get it on here and get this one working again. So let's slide that and get to the LCD out, right? So I need to take the old um LCD module off here. Another only thing that's holding it on is the two connections for the green backlight. LED So I'm going to have to unsolder those. Let's take the power off. one of my cells is out anyway. but let's take the power connector out. so let's get those two LED connections. uh, desoldered. Incidentally, the price of this oh I should do a screen grab really on the AliExpress item, but I've got a feeling it was either 11 or 13 something of that order I think it was free shipping so not terribly expensive. and I mean I'm quite happy to pay that amount for a replacement LCD for this because this is really important to my system in the shed. so I don't mind that if if I've either written the item off or if it never worked to start with I really don't mind I only wanted the LCD right iron is hot. That's see if I can wiggle it out. but I alternately heating up the two connections I'm just pulling the LCD out of its holder. which isn't what I want to do. Yeah, it's coming out slowly. I've got a very good grip on it because I'm gripping the LCD but that's pulling away from the backlight module. Perhaps if I take the LCD completely off and just hold on to the backlight module, I can coax it out like that I think it's coming out I will have to suck these holes out once. I got this thing out thank you and it's out. Okay, let's clean these two holes and then I can get the new LCD with its backlight module so that I don't have to disturb the little two pieces of double-sided sticky down either side which is all that's holding that in. Uh, and get that transferred to this. rather than sucking these, I might actually just try heating them up and banging them because that often works. Yeah, that seems to be working. heated up and bang it down. Well, the solder's certainly coming out of the hole, right? Let's try a bit of sucking now. Heat it up and suck other side. heat it up and suck. I'm not sure that one worked as well. Heat it up and suck. Let's take a look at the holes. Let's take a look at those two holes. Oh yes, they look like they're quite nicely sucked out, right? Let's get the new LCD on now. the new LCD I'll take tear that piece of foam away. Um, it's actually stood off the board on two little felt pads, presumably so that it sits into the right position behind this front window on this front part of the case. now. I've just tried lifting it up and it's lifting away the white plastic backlight sheet, but that might not be a problem because I can probably take the one off the back of here. Let's have a go at that, right? Yeah, this is also held on with a little bit of double-sided sticky at that end. Very thin strip, but a much larger amount there. So I think I'll probably use this taken off the old one and put it on the new one. Let's see how that goes first. I've got to get these out, but there's no point desoldering them. I might as well just cut them because they're long enough to go into my other board. Um, without bothering to desolder them. So let's cut these. that gets that off. And really, that's a very dark way to mount it because they've mounted the double-sided sticky onto that plastic, um, back sheet which isn't actually attached to this so it doesn't really mount it properly anyway, right? So that's that off there now. I Can put this sheet which did get a little bit distorted while I peeled it off, but it should be all right. On to the back of the working LCD just gotta line that up best. I Can that looks pretty good and now Mount This onto this board. Oh, what's happened there? There's only one leg on the backlight LED What's happened there? What's happened is that the LED when I cut The Wire um on the board. Of course, there was a huge stress on it and it's actually shattered straight across the LED. You can probably see it there and broken it effectively in half. So this, uh, back holder actually isn't going to be any good. I'm going to have to peel the LCD off it and put my other LCD onto this onto the old back holder. That's all I can do now. Yes, that didn't go terribly well. Did it right? So the new LCD is now on the old back illumination panel because that's got a working LED in it. Uh, put that the legs of that through the holes. Now, there was nothing attaching this to the PCB previously only really. the soldering of the backlight. LED And of course, the ribbon cable will also hold it on to some extent and we'll just have to see how that goes. So I'll solder these connections back on and see if it all works. Uh, right. So that's soldered back in up a little bit. He's a blue tack there just to hold it that actually could end up being permanent. Who knows, right? it's plugged some power in on here. Oh, that's fixed, isn't it? So that's good. Uh, got the Chinese screen. The English screen The Vault snaps at the top screen. the volts and amps on the left screen to turn this on off really shouldn't. I uh, the choice of whether the backlight stays on or doesn't is on a timer screen. uh, over voltage alarm, under voltage alarm, over current alarm. And back to the Chinese screen. and I noticed. actually when I rebooted it, do it again. It says something in Chinese I've never seen that before, but something briefly flashes up on the display. no idea what. and this, let's have a closer look at it. Um is just simply a plastic with some sort of texture which I presume. Um, lets the light. You can see the texture there. gets the light from the LED and spreads it across this whole area. And then there's a a white sheet on the back and a white sheet on the top. Uh, which way did that go? Oh yeah, I think that went there. That's right. Um, just to provide a nice even illumination just with this Led simply glued into a little cutout there. It's not that sophisticated, but yeah, that Led is shattered when I Uh, cut one of the legs with the snips and forced it very quickly upwards I suppose and it just broke the LED Yes, this has been somewhat brutalized, possibly destroyed by over voltage. um, and also the LED backlight plate destroyed. but I did just want the LCD from this. so I'm not terribly unhappy. Let's peel that off there. Oh, they didn't even peel off the backing sheet on that piece of um, self elusive foam. That's why that wasn't stuck down. Yes, they forgot to peel off the backing sheet. Crazy. So this video was going to be a post bag and a sort of overview of how this thing works. It does have an extra feature. It has a Bluetooth module in there. now. you can download an app on your phone, but it's one of these apps which isn't properly on the Google or Apple store. So you have to override the security mechanisms and say yes, I'm happy installing a dodgy app which I got from some random unknown place. It's not terribly useful. You've got to have your phone within 10 meters of the unit. Quite frankly, if there's a display on here I'd far rather use that. But anyway, the LCD has been taken off this so this won't get used. I've got another one of these coming. Um, so I can redo that post bag video and show how this thing works. Um, but I fixed my meter and that can now go back out in the shed. So I'm happy cheerio.