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https://www.banggood.com/12-in-1-TS100-Soldering-Iron-Kit-with-9pcs-Tips-1pc-XT60-Cable-1pc-Holder-p-1256069.html?utm_source=Youtube&utm_medium=cussku&utm_campaign=672526_1256069&utm_content=1081
It's a piece of wood with two holes drilled into it. It holds the two fork terminals in place so I can solder a link wire between them. I soldered the link wire using the TS100 soldering iron. The link is for my supercapacitor project.
https://www.banggood.com/12-in-1-TS100-Soldering-Iron-Kit-with-9pcs-Tips-1pc-XT60-Cable-1pc-Holder-p-1256069.html?utm_source=Youtube&utm_medium=cussku&utm_campaign=672526_1256069&utm_content=1081
It's a piece of wood with two holes drilled into it. It holds the two fork terminals in place so I can solder a link wire between them. I soldered the link wire using the TS100 soldering iron. The link is for my supercapacitor project.
Yes, the sheet copper shunts would be a good ideas, especially if they are in a Omega shape to facilitate expansion and contraction / kinetic shock.
Look up a 898 d rework station on eBay ,I think you will be much happier,and it's way cheaper does much more.that thing is a over priced toy.does very little
The bridge itself could have been used to make the holes rather than using a ruler. It would have been easier and less prone to error.
Hi Julian, if you have lots of work like this, a good investment is a soldering gun, something like eBay item 381939765381 (I can't recommend any particular product as my device was make by Parkside, it's several yrs old and is 160W and 550 degC). But you can forget about tinning the tip because these things turn a reel of solder into a puddle in seconds, making heavy duty soldering job a breeze. Top tips if you do get one, 1). After you've twisted your thick wires together, flatten the bottom so you can get more of the tip surface against the bottom of the wire. 2). Heat the wire from the bottom (heat rises) and apply the solder from the top (gravity falls) so it can run down through the strands. 3). If working on insulated cables, lightly clamp some Vice-grips/Mulgrips over the ends of the insulation to help prevent it melting backwards. 4). Get carried away seeing what else you can melt with it, it's so much fun!…
Julian, I made a similar jig some years ago to solve the problem of GRAVITY. You could mount your work-piece on a small dowel–one or two, that rotated with a bit of friction so that the top of a solder heap would not flatten. I had a tiny cooling fan on a rotating mount to slightly hasten hardening time. After adding the fan, I never got any solder drop-off again–You will be surprised how little airflow can accomplish this.
I'd say that putting in more wattage as opposed to just upping the temperature would work way better. If it can't keep up the heat dissipation it won't work
oh Julian.. why are so many of your videos these days all about supercapacitors? and not even using them for anything but rather just fidgeting around and testing them while whispering about future projects?
If you'd read my comments on your previous video you'd already know that the TS100 can be configured using its buttons without the need of a computer.
If you put a couple of fibre washers between the forked terminals and the screws on either the capacitors or your jig you wouldn't be trying to heat up the screws and so soldering would be much quicker and easier.
Here's a better method: make a y shaped stick. Glue that to the 2 connectors to solder while they are on the capacitors. Remove the set when glue is solid. Clamp the 2 connectors to a piece of wood and now solder them together. It doesn't matter if glue goes away (actually it's even a good thing) during soldering.
Seems like a piece of solid copper wire in each terminal then soldered in would be good. Not sure how much/many amps those things can put out, but i'd somewhat be afraid that it would be enough to melt the solder, and cause a short?
This is just daft, make some proper shunts using thin copper bus bar, 1mm should be fine. You would need a slight upward bend to clear the PCB track on the RHS one.
And double sided tape to attach the capacitors together, hot glue is an awful bodge.
Get the old 75 watt Solon out works every time!
Why did you not just use the one you took off as the template? hmm
Had your fingers touched both sides of the capacitor and you did have a charge in them, we would surely have seen said lively dance with leaping movements, likely accompanied by loud expletives. Didn't your electronics teacher larn ye about the handy conductive effects of a metal screwdriver blade when introduced to both poles of a capacitor, Julian?
Smaller screws with fiber insulating washers would have made it much easier to solder, for the next time.
What was the purpose of halving the capacity?
May contain sarcasm:
1. Pity the poor plumber joining two 3 metre runs of copper pipe with a traditional soldered connector. Some heatsink, eh? Flux, capillary action and a gas torch, done in a jiffy. Got one of those culinary torches for crême brûlée?
2. Ditch the U connectors and the soldering. Use your jig to bend two U shaped ends on a piece of solid core copper wire. Tin if worried about corrosion or if you just prefer silvery things.
3. If I couldn't solder these two connectors together with a twenty watt iron, I would be ashamed.