By Julian
Youtuber, shed dweller, solar charge controller aficionado
Good morning all…
Youtuber, shed dweller, solar charge controller aficionado
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Ooo bigclive style!
Lots if displays and readouts!!
I know it's been a long time since this video, and I also know that you made power meters using the INA219 module, but did you ever do anything with these INA226 modules? I've used INA219 modules before, but they are limited to max 3A current – which is why I guess you went for the INA226 instead as I believe they can handle higher current? Interested to hear what you did with them….
It would be interesting to see a comparison of the other grades (302 and 303) they make, along with other makers. On our favourite eastern market place, there are brand like Locttlf (looks like a loctite knock off brand), visbella, lazerbond, and then there are "UV Resins" which are labelled as "hard" and "soft" (usually featured being used to fabricate jewellery)
If you want to experiment to find a bull alternative which works really well, or you're looking for a showdown type video, this might be interesting.
Anyone know where you can get those non-solder/weld battery pack holders or the keywords?
No….you have many more ads than is usual.
have you had any problems with post from china?? ive not received any in weeks now.
Current monitor I2C address… Four addresses.. 00, 01, 10, 11. But you can always use another two data lines for a soft I2C line.
Are you wearing a mask? (Coronaasliexpress) 😂😂😂
For the UV curing glue, I use a UV nail arch like used in nail bars to set the gels. Just put it in there and it gets saturated with UV for a controlled time
Could you use standoffs for stacking those circuits?
Looks like the UV isn't penetrating through to the centre of the bolt. Maybe just bold.doesn't let light through it 🙂.
Looks like it works though.
A good shake will fix many things.
Bought a bottle too. I got a decent manual with it. The glue is for glass, and at least one of the glued parts needs to be transparent. Waterproofing electronics is a bit of a gamble i find. I use that big yellow-ish UV-gun outside.
Heyho! I just found you as you subscribed to my channel and I am glad you did! You cover a lot of stuff I am very interested in (LED nerd here too =D ). Cheers and thanks!!
4 unique addresses with two settable address bits (A0 and A1): 00 01 10 11 so you can add 0, 1, 2 or 3 to the base address depending on how you connect the A0 and A1 bits (or not).
Usually the UV adhesive you get in those large bottles is for joining a cellphone front glass to the touch sensor. It won't surface harden which means it will be sticky, it also won't go completely rock hard. What you want is UV cured "No wipe top coat" for nail art. That stuff hardens fully and leaves a dry surface.
That said, all the ads that show people joining things like two screws end to end or repairing eyeglass frames are basically scams. UV adhesive is good for covering sensitive things (SMD LEDs on a PCB people are supposed to touch for example) or joining large transparent surfaces together (screen and touch sensor as above).