Hello today! I'm looking at battery monitor. Now this is the Junts Tech Model KH 110f This is a 100 amp shunt unit. Uh, nothing on the end. So let's open the box and take a look at what's inside the box.

We have a quick guide. We've got three boxes including the display module there and some cables. Let's get it all out on the bench. So here's all the stuff that was in the Box Um, you get this huge long cable which links the display unit to the measurement unit and you also get a shunt unit here.

So I'll just open this up. You just remove the lid and inside is a well. This is a 100 amp unit. It probably only measures up to 100 amp, but this says 200 amps, 75 millivolts, M8 bolts here.

You don't get these connectors, but I put them on because actually, they work with banana plugs. Um, to plug in like that. but it didn't work terribly well. So I'll probably use eight millimeter ring terminals, a bag of cables here I'll go through those now.

There's this cable. four wires which links the shunt, um, to the measurement unit. There's this cable, three wires which just has bare ends. Now that's for the Relay Control Output relay is not provided.

You have to provide your own relay. You get this two wire thermistor and you also get this connector which goes into this socket and that's to power the measurement unit. and I've already attached a wire to that for some experiments. Um, but yeah, that's everything in the Box So the first thing to do is to power up this voltage and current measuring module.

So we put um, now there's two ways to power this. You can either power it independently of your battery and load and measurement system, or you can tap off from your battery and power this from the battery. Now I'm going to do that just to make the wiring a bit simpler. In the first instance, I'm going to use this Lithium-ion phosphate 12 volt 4 cell battery.

I was using this um, lead acid 12 volt battery but it just depleted so quickly it was next to useless. So yeah, I'm going to use this one. so I'll put that behind my mat and then I've made up this. I've got some banana plugs to go into the battery um, and some outputs to go to my load or to go through the current shunt and then to the load.

But I just did a tap off point here where I'm going to connect this thin cable and that goes to the plug which will enable the measuring unit to be powered from my 12 volt battery. Okay, so let's plug in positive into this unit. so that goes into the sense. so that's actually the measuring input.

but if you set this to the 2W setting which you can see it's set to, you can use this in two wire mode. You don't have to separately power this, but then of course it can only measure down to about 10 volts because any lower than that and the measurement unit isn't getting enough voltage to operate properly. If you separately power this box from an external power supply, you can actually get this unit to measure all the way down to zero volts. although with most batteries, of course, you really wouldn't want to do that.

So now I need to feed ground here into the ground input. but actually you can feed it in via the current sense module. so let's connect that next. So the current sense cable is VCC ground I sense positive and I sense negative.

So plug that in there and then connect that to the current shunt. Like So and now if we connect battery negative to the battery side of the current shunt, I'll take off that connector. We'll complete the circuit for powering the measurement unit. so I'll just undo that nut and take off that connector.

So I put a eight millimeter ring terminal on there. if I connect that the measurement unit Powers up. Just need to get a good connection on that and you can see that the measurement unit is working because the Run light flashes on and off. Okay, so that's that unit powered up.

Next, let's connect the display module and that's nice and easy. You connect it to the display port here. Now we've got a B A This is A four, an Rs-485 The connections are B, A Ground and plus five volts as you can't really get this one wrong, but this is a huge cable I Think it's about three meters long so I'll just get that in a suitable place and then if I connect the other end of that into the display module, you can see that it says oh, I didn't click it in properly connected Uh, junts Tech Whatever the model is and this powers on. So essentially, what does this unit do? Well, it measures voltage, which it's already doing through this little thin wire and that doesn't matter that that's a thin wire because this thing doesn't draw much power and it also measures current, which it does through the shunt.

Now that's currently zero amps. but if I put a load on here and that's the next thing I have to set up. Um, we should see. Um, some amps appear on there.

and of course, once you've got volts and amps measured, you can also calculate watts and then it does the time-based derivative stuff. um, amp hours, Watt hours and all those sorts of things right? Let's use some blue tack on the bottom edge of the display and then I can stick it there in such a place that we can see it and hope that it won't move. Okay, now you can also get a temperature measurement using the supplied thermistor. I'll just plug that in temporarily so that you can see the number appear on the display there 22 degrees Celsius You can have that in Fahrenheit if you insist on that sort of thing.

but I'm not going to leave that connected because it's just adding to the Clutter and the only thing really that's useful for is there are some shut off parameters and you can have I think over temperature and under temperature disconnect. You do need the relay for the disconnect features. I'm not going to do the relay in this video. I'll just keep this to the simplest setup that I can fit on my desk.

Okay, to see some current. Uh, we need a load. so I'm going to use this bulb. so I've made this little base so that that can sit in there and then I need to complete the wiring.

Here's positive so I'll put a a banana plug in there and then negative needs to link back to here so I can use a double banana plug for that so connect negative of my load into the shunt. Now, the bulb's not very bright because it's a 24 volt bulb on a 12 volt battery. but there we are. We've got 13.06 volts, uh, 0.68 amps and watts is 8.7 or thereabouts, right? Let's quickly run through what's on the display here.

So Volts Amps if you're discharging the battery, amps shows up in blue and you get this there. If you're charging, the battery amp shows up in green and you get chg there. What's is derived from volts and Amps. Now you've got a state of charge of the battery.

Now, this is not voltage based. This is a coulomb counting state of charge indicator. In fact, this unit doesn't even have a setting for what type of battery you're using. So Nmc, Lithium-ion phosphate, or even lead acid.

This doesn't really care. It does state of charge purely by counting down Amps, seconds, or Amp hours. Amp seconds of course are coulombs. So this is a kilometer and I'll show that working.

although my battery is actually 12 well. Van Powers I've set this to one amp hour so that we can see it count down the amp hours. You can see it's 0.996 Amp hours. so it's set to 1 amp hour.

I've told it that the battery is completely full. Let's connect up the load. and the other thing on here is a clock. A real-time clock with date and time, but it's not actually running until you set it.

But what you can see is that the Amp power number is clocking down so 0.994 and then any second. Now, yeah, it's gone to 0.993 and the state of charge percentage indicator will also start clocking down. So there is an internal seconds counter which is running because it's providing the coulomb counting or not quite coulombs. But um, Amp hours are counting down.

It's Amp hours to three decimal places. So letting that continue to count down Um, this time left indicator is also a time-based field which looks at it takes a while before it comes up, but it looks at the rate at which it's counting down in uh, thousandths of an Amp hour and then eventually it will give you an hours and seconds remaining time indicator based on the speed at which the remaining Amp Hours indicator is going down. So I'll just leave that going for a while. I'll speed this section up.

Okay, so that field has now appeared. It says that we've got one hour and 25 minutes time remaining. Assuming this battery was one amp hour, it's actually far more than that. Um, and you can see now we're down to 0.953 amp hours and 95 battery remaining.

So this does real-time voltage, real-time current, real-time power. It also does remaining Amp hours and state of charge as a percentage remaining time. and then the other field here is just says record and it's currently paused and you can't actually make it record if you haven't got the real-time clock set. Um I suppose because what it seems to do is act as a Data Logger and I think all the information is actually stored in this unit.

This must have some memory in it and it seems to log voltage and current and also time and date information. The default for this is that it records one sample per second, but you can slow it down. although even at one sample per second, it seems that this has got actually quite a bit of memory. So in order to get that working, uh, I'll put my hand around the back.

I Want to go into the settings thing here and you can go through pages of settings here. so settings, second page. Third item: If we go in there, you can see that it says that the record system is on, but it's not counting up that that number there. The count: 3225.

That's account from previous experiments I was doing so it's not actually running and that's because the real-time clock has not been set. Now there is a setting for setting the real-time clock. Oh, I think I need to come out of there. Let's leave that on.

Come out. Go back to the real time clock setting which is here. and there is a torturous real-time clock setting process. So I can go up to 2001.

let's go to I Don't know. 2010 I think I have to. Yes, that's now started the real time clock running and now if we come out of settings, you can see that the record indicator is no longer paused. It has a play indicator a little triangle which I think is rather odd.

Um, I Would have thought that would be better as a little red dot because it's recording the question. Then you ask yourself is, well, how do you play this back and that's when you have to turn to the app. Now here's the app. It's K H dash F Now in the manual it says download an APK file and install it and but actually I Found that this was on the Google Play store so I installed it straight from there and this is kind of what the app looks like, but it's not currently connected.

so let's do a search and it's this unit here. Btgwo eight I'll see if it connects. sometimes it doesn't connect. First time around, Oh, it has and now we can see the data.

We've got 12.95 volts. Does that match that? Yes, it does. 0.67 amps. Um, Watts amp hours remaining.

It also does cumulative, um charging energy in kilowatt hours and discharging energy in kilowatt hours. We've got the state of charge percentage indicator there. We've got the estimated time, temperature, the sensor's not fitted, and here's the data recorder and you can see the little triangle there. which means it's in recording mode, not paused mode.

You'll notice. The other thing that's happened is that the date and time of course on my tablet is correct because it's on Wi-Fi and it's transferred that over to this unit. So the easiest way to set date and time on this unit is to run up the app. Now if I go into the settings set second page.

Third item: you can see here that the counter for the samples and you can see that it's one second per sample and it's on. In other words, it's recording. The counter is now incrementing. it's done 3404 counts.

But on here you're thinking, how do I actually view the data? Well, you don't. You have to go to the app and you go to Curve which is the second page. You can actually just scroll this left and right so you can scroll to the second page. Now you've got real time voltage and current curve here and that's obviously coming over the Bluetooth Incidentally, there's nothing on here that shows you Bluetooth is connected, but you do see it on this light rather than a 50 mark space on the Run light.

It's now a sort of flickery run light so that tells you that the Bluetooth is connected. If you then go to the Historical Curve switch that on it will say that this will briefly interrupt the data recording and you just have to accept that That's the case because it's downloading all the data over Bluetooth from this module which has a Bluetooth module in it to the app. and now we can look at the data on this graph on the app. And if we go to custom View there is a delay on this app and we have a whole series of dates That's uh, 2023, June the 6th.

So that's yesterday actually. So if you want to look at today's data, it'd be easier quite frankly if I cleared all the data here. Um, which I believe I can do in the app. You can also do it on the unit itself.

I will have to try and work out how to do that. I'll do it on this module actually. if I press that and go over to clear and press OK it says clear and set so you set the samples. no seconds per sample.

So I want one second per sample? You can slow this down, but you can't go any quicker. I'm going to say okay, and that's now cleared. all the data you can see, the count has gone back to uh, all zeros, five, or whatever it is and so it started again. If I now go back to the app and say historical curve then it gives you that warning that it will temp briefly interrupt the data logging if we now go to custom View did I press it? The feedback is yes, there's only one entry now and if I look at that entry okay, I wasn't pressing confirm So I'll press confirm there and then we get to see a graph of the historical voltage and current data that's in the memory of that unit.

and if we go back, we can again look at the real time voltage and current data. If I temporarily disconnect the lamp, we should see the current which is in green fall to zero. Oh I think the current's so tiny you can barely see the step there. So the essence of this unit is voltage and current measuring and therefore power measuring, state of charge, indication, remaining Amp hours, and state of charge as a percentage.

But you do need to tell this unit how big your battery is so this won't ever be precise and it will drift and you will periodically need to reassess that. And then the other thing is data logging. It does seem that it can store quite a lot in the memory. If we go back into that data logging thing, you can see that it's done 195 counts now.

Previously I got up to about 3000 counts, but it looks like you can get up to, well, almost a million counts. It would be 99999. So if that's how much memory it's got in it, that's quite a lot of data. A million seconds.

What's that in days? Okay, 694 days. So that's a couple of years of sample data assuming it can go up to a million. I Don't know whether it does, but if it does, that's two years of data with one sample per second now. I'll just quickly go through the other setting entries.

You've got set date and time. That's best done through the app language Chinese and English Sound on or off is a not very loud beep Celsius or Fahrenheit This is where you set the amp hours of your battery so you need to tell the unit how big the battery is. This is where you set in the initial state of charge. You have to estimate that of course you can set a screen brightness for daytime and screen brightness for night time.

You can set whether the screen goes off after a period of time, you can set up the Bluetooth password This is the data recording screen that I was on before protection delay time. Now, this is all to do with the relay. I'm not going to cover that in this video I might in a subsequent video um, zero current memory. You can.

If you've got a residual current showing up when there's no current flowing through the device, you can zero it out there. uh. Relay mode: You can either have normally open or normally closed uh, the address of the screen unit a reminder that you're getting to low capacity on the battery, it'll probably beep. And here are all the protections: Over voltage Protection Low voltage protection Charge Current Protection Discharge Current protection and all of these require that you attach the relay to the measuring unit so that it can cut off if any of these is triggered over temperature protection Low temperature protection protection recovery time so you can get it to disconnect the relay, but then if the conditions settle back, you can have it switch the relay back on after a period of time which you set there display host mode where you can actually stop it talking to the display.

I don't quite know why you want to do that and a factory restore and those are all the settings. and just looking at the four sections of the app, you've got the main page there. you've got the ability to look at current data and historical data. You've got settings now.

I've noticed here there's a firmware upgrade so you can probably pull firmware into the app and then have it transfer it to that unit. So I assume you can upgrade the firmware of that unit have to have a look at that in another video because this one's probably getting very long and there's an about page and so that was an initial look at the Junts tech uh K 110 F and a little run through of uh, some of the settings and if anyone's interested in more detail in this, I am going to uh, this will appear in another video coming up fairly soon because I'm going to use it to test the capacity of a Lithium-Ion phosphate battery from fully charged to fully discharged. so we will see this again in a video pretty soon. but that's it for now.

Cheerio.