JLCPCB Prototype for $2(Any Color): https://jlcpcb.com
How to Get PCB Cash Coupon: https://bit.ly/2GMCH9w
Just mechanical stuff in this one. I need to modify my SPDT footswitch to DPST. Adding a 5mm red LED completes the modification.
How to Get PCB Cash Coupon: https://bit.ly/2GMCH9w
Just mechanical stuff in this one. I need to modify my SPDT footswitch to DPST. Adding a 5mm red LED completes the modification.
I bought a generic usb pedal. The driver that was provided allows me basic functions such as choosing a keyboard or mouse key. However, there is no key repeat while I'm pressing down the pedal, it only triggers once. Is it possible to the key to be held while I am pressing the pedal and released when I stop pressing it. Is there any setting in Windows 10 that I can enable the "holding button" instead of just pressing? I tried to use the PCSENSOR software, but the USB pedal I bought is not recognized by this software. I also tried to look for a universal software for USB pedals but without success.
kek
Julian. you do realize the listing said 1 NC and 1 NO right? One switch will be normally open and one will be normally closed? I could be wrong about the listing entirely but I'd double check the switches properly work.
I think the two switches are going to disengage the moment you lift your foot up.
I think maybe the original switch was push down to turn on and it stays on.
Push down to turn off and then it stays off. I don't know for sure?
Those switches look identical to the ones they use in microwave ovens. It's the switch that use when the door is closed, when the doors open it shuts off.
Fun fact: in 1988 when I was not being dragged around and poked into doing actual real work, I used to disassemble rotary dial telephone instruments so that I could get my hands on the “standard” microswitches that were contained within… [I was a trainee at the time, so often got a pile of “faulty”, “old” or “unknown state” phones to try to “repair” dumped in front of me…].
why should the led be in the foot pedal and not in the top unit which you can see?
does it bother anyone that on the bottom it says red black white. but the actual wires are red, yellow, and green.
Both NC NC because it's a momentary switch pedal. I bought three of those because it said on/off not momentary and then when I got them I had to replace the switches because I had to hold the pedal down to get what I was using to stay on was so frustrating!! but I guess that's what you get for paying what we pay 😂 I like the videos they keeps me entertained while I'm working. Keep up the good work!
Sorry mate – you buy some shite. but hey its fun to watch. lol
I would put the LED on the cable somehow
Kek as in Kekistan lol 🤣😂
a relay would have made this a great deal easier!!!
I'm leery about the switch ratings. What's generally unappreciated is that switches have a MINIMUM rating as well. If your voltage and current falls below that, the current won't be able to break though any oxidation layer and switch won't be reliable in the long-term. I experienced this first hand with a system that used Micro Switches to control TTL electronics. These switches will probability work until you get board with it, but won't last in the long run. Proper design would call for gold-plated contacts (gold doesn't oxidize).
You might have just used the single contacts in the switch as purchased. Add a single diode to the base of the transistor on the Excitation board to connect to the (now) common single switch. This diode in combination with the LED on the mixer would completely isolate the two separate circuits. I've used this sort of "diode-OR gate" solution for more than 40 years. No mechanics required.