This is just superb, been searching for "how hot can a ceramic resistor get" for a while now, and I think this has helped. Ever heard of – Henucas Panrooklyn Equalizer – (just google it )? It is a good one of a kind guide for discovering how to repair electronic devices like a pro without the hard work. Ive heard some extraordinary things about it and my buddy got excellent success with it.
At high power, the LED is on the part of it's IV curve where small voltage changes can result in large current changes, so CC control is more reliable. If you're using individual LEDs, you can configure them so that Vout is close to Vin and the LM317 works OK. But for COB LEDs where the matrix is pre-configured, you may not be so lucky matching Vin and Vout. And if you want to put a 36v COB LED on a 12V battery, switching is the only way.
Yes so the only way to go is cc not a constant cv is that right with any hi power led …I'm not sure why this is maybe you can tell me but I have used the switching lm2596 cv cc reg on my 3 watt leds in series and compaired them to my lm 317t the 317 is a lot more stable and robust so by keeping the v in close to the v out and allowing for the ref v also .I get really no heat at all .do you still think a switcher is still the best option …
I'm doing a series on high power LEDs, from 1W up to 100W – this is a 1 Watt. I want to show that resistor current limiting is impractical at these power levels – the LED is burning 1W, but the resistor is trying to dissipate 3W. A 3W resistor would work, but it's a terrible waste of power.
So what was the led you used ,and was this to show how not having the correct wattage resister cooks them ,or was it a bad resister that was supposed to handle the power you had it dissipating…
This is just superb, been searching for "how hot can a ceramic resistor get" for a while now, and I think this has helped. Ever heard of – Henucas Panrooklyn Equalizer – (just google it )?
It is a good one of a kind guide for discovering how to repair electronic devices like a pro without the hard work. Ive heard some extraordinary things about it and my buddy got excellent success with it.
Whatever the resistor does, the LED seems somehow unimpressed…
nice fluff.
That's just the resistor – now I've got to show what happens when there's not enough heatsinking on the LEDs!
You is getting quite hooked on trashing expensive electronic components..! hehe 😉
At high power, the LED is on the part of it's IV curve where small voltage changes can result in large current changes, so CC control is more reliable. If you're using individual LEDs, you can configure them so that Vout is close to Vin and the LM317 works OK. But for COB LEDs where the matrix is pre-configured, you may not be so lucky matching Vin and Vout. And if you want to put a 36v COB LED on a 12V battery, switching is the only way.
Yes so the only way to go is cc not a constant cv is that right with any hi power led …I'm not sure why this is maybe you can tell me but I have used the switching lm2596 cv cc reg on my 3 watt leds in series and compaired them to my lm 317t the 317 is a lot more stable and robust so by keeping the v in close to the v out and allowing for the ref v also .I get really no heat at all .do you still think a switcher is still the best option …
I'm doing a series on high power LEDs, from 1W up to 100W – this is a 1 Watt. I want to show that resistor current limiting is impractical at these power levels – the LED is burning 1W, but the resistor is trying to dissipate 3W. A 3W resistor would work, but it's a terrible waste of power.
So what was the led you used ,and was this to show how not having the correct wattage resister cooks them ,or was it a bad resister that was supposed to handle the power you had it dissipating…