Funny there is not a lot of info out there on using SIL's. I have been building devices that use 8-10 LED's and using a LOT of resistors, where one or two SIL's would work. With that in mind I purchased a variety box of SIL's from the Electronic Goldmine online. It arrived with over 100 SIL's now the problem is figuring out what each one is in value. They have all sorts of markings due to various makers and designs, I think I have sort of figured out most of them now, it looks like it should
Blue LEDs put out hundreds (thousands?) of times more photons than red LEDs for the same current. Using higher value resistors for the red and lower for the blue will increase the difference. I use resistors on the Blue LEDs that are 10 times the value of the red ones, and they're still noticeably brighter (but much less distracting).
I might have gone "old school" & put 2 wraps of wire wrap wire on the SIP common pin & the LED array lead it goes to; Gives the solder something to be attracted to + a good mechanical & electrical connection (compared to some other methods)
The more current you draw from those pins the more issues you are gonna have. Best off using a high value resistor so LED just lights up. Unfortunately this is rather camera unfriendly. Maybe other adjustments can be made but as you multiply the setup there gonna be trigger and voltage issues later. Like video, like the bar graph idea.
You could've put common pin on the other row of pins. That way you would have the common fitting into the power lines directly (maybe with some little bending) without having to use that link on the side of the chip.
Hey Julian, can you please make a Fade-in Fade-out LED (Strip) Dimmer and sell the kit on your site or put an affiliate link so we can buy the parts? THANKS!!!
Being a couple of jumps ahead here, wanting the create my own 8bit breadboard computer, based on the videos from Ben Eater et al. and wanting to show the the address and databus inputs you are currently prototyping, I came across the same scenario with these 10bit bar graphs: I tested a number of SIL resistor networks and found the best turned out to be 330R for both 3.3v and 5v. I know you said you'd try the 330R SIL and I think you'll find it's the best option for a good brightness level.
I noticed that the LED's on the right were considerably brighter then the ones on the left. Does that indicate the resistor pack has resistance across the common buss? Otherwise it should have the same amp draw across each LED no matter how many are lit. Especially considering it is tied directly to the negative terminal. I did not see the blue LED's changing in output so it is not a supply issue. Hmm
Julian. Thanks for the time.
Funny there is not a lot of info out there on using SIL's. I have been building devices that use 8-10 LED's and using a LOT of resistors, where one or two SIL's would work. With that in mind I purchased a variety box of SIL's from the Electronic Goldmine online. It arrived with over 100 SIL's now the problem is figuring out what each one is in value. They have all sorts of markings due to various makers and designs, I think I have sort of figured out most of them now, it looks like it should
Really interesting.Thanks.
You should improve your video editing. That will us time and your channel will grow drastically,because your content is good but time consuming.
10 – 10 till we do it again.
Blue LEDs put out hundreds (thousands?) of times more photons than red LEDs for the same current. Using higher value resistors for the red and lower for the blue will increase the difference. I use resistors on the Blue LEDs that are 10 times the value of the red ones, and they're still noticeably brighter (but much less distracting).
I might have gone "old school" & put 2 wraps of wire wrap wire on the SIP common pin & the LED array lead it goes to; Gives the solder something to be attracted to + a good mechanical & electrical connection (compared to some other methods)
The more current you draw from those pins the more issues you are gonna have. Best off using a high value resistor so LED just lights up. Unfortunately this is rather camera unfriendly. Maybe other adjustments can be made but as you multiply the setup there gonna be trigger and voltage issues later. Like video, like the bar graph idea.
You could've put common pin on the other row of pins. That way you would have the common fitting into the power lines directly (maybe with some little bending) without having to use that link on the side of the chip.
I put blue LED warning lights in my car and had to use a massive resistor just so it wouldn't blind me at night.
Hey Julian, can you please make a Fade-in Fade-out LED (Strip) Dimmer and sell the kit on your site or put an affiliate link so we can buy the parts? THANKS!!!
101010 is the answer.
Being a couple of jumps ahead here, wanting the create my own 8bit breadboard computer, based on the videos from Ben Eater et al. and wanting to show the the address and databus inputs you are currently prototyping, I came across the same scenario with these 10bit bar graphs: I tested a number of SIL resistor networks and found the best turned out to be 330R
for both 3.3v and 5v. I know you said you'd try the 330R SIL and I think you'll find it's the best option for a good brightness level.
absolutely fabulous
realy looking forward the this series.
Julian you most of the time give us the web sites were you buy stuff
I noticed that the LED's on the right were considerably brighter then the ones on the left. Does that indicate the resistor pack has resistance across the common buss? Otherwise it should have the same amp draw across each LED no matter how many are lit. Especially considering it is tied directly to the negative terminal. I did not see the blue LED's changing in output so it is not a supply issue. Hmm