$2 for 10 PCBs & 24 Hour Production: https://jlcpcb.com
https://www.patreon.com/julian256
Thought I'd charge the 24V supercapacitor using my Muppet 2 device. But then I remembered the 'lazy' cap.
https://www.patreon.com/julian256
Thought I'd charge the 24V supercapacitor using my Muppet 2 device. But then I remembered the 'lazy' cap.
One flaky cap out of a batch of nine, chinese factory seconds disposed of profitably by way of ebay! 🙂
Hi Julian, why not incorporate the two opto onto one PCB, wouldn't it be cheaper to build and easier to configure and operate?
Hey Julian where could I found Your code for muppet?
use 2x heatsinks out of a broken HI-FI amp and use 5x IRF250 per heatsink
Wouldn't the inductor have influence on the meter coil ? Being an inductor itself.
Your shaft needs a nice big knob on it for fine manual control.
Half a volt difference at 500ma is 1ohm of resistance, sounds like you got some shoddy connections or thin wire.
How did you address the cap reversal you were having in your first tests?
Are you going to use the Arduino to automate the current control? Seems the next logical step.
I find your commentary and thought process helpful. Keep up the good work
I believe i can hear the switching, sounds like 16khz (I’m 27 years old and can hear roughly to 17khz before dropping off)
still using that nano with an identity crisis eh 🙂
you could add a hall effect current sensor to the arduino for constant current mode