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Let's unpack the Juliano Chorizo and Pro Minty boards and give the USB to serial PCB a test.
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Good morning, all the drilling room, another jigsaw puzzle from jlc pcb so dhl, have been and brought me this box. Let's see, what's inside it, another jigsaw puzzle and it's another um room something room. Uh doesn't look like the same as that because, where it says room, there's no sort of black line, so yeah, that's another room. We'll have to have a look at that.

Here are my pcbs: let's get them open. These are the chorizo usb to serial adapter and also my pro minty or sort of initial version of the pro minty. How do i get these open um, which is my micro controller sort of arduino style board right? Let's see what this smaller package is, and here it is five pieces of giuliano chorizo c, so that's churritz, so with the ch340c chip which doesn't require the crystal and load capacitors, because it's got a built-in oscillator. Let's take a closer look at one of these.

So what can we see? Yeah ch340c, two leds at the top. One of them seems to have a little green flash pointing to the right, and that goes to tx and the other one goes to rx, so they get pulled low when serial data is being transmitted and the two resistors on those leds go to the five volts. There's a tantalum capacitor at the top going to the 5 volts 5 volts also appears to go to pin oh 16 of that 16 pin chip and also down to the well. I assume it's 100 n capacitor uh bottom left just above where it says turret so c, and that's pretty much it there's one more capacitor on pin four and i believe, that's the 3.3 volts input which is just decoupled to the ground plane.

Well, i suppose we should see whether this works shouldn't we, and this means that i've now got two uh usb2 serial converter boards, the chili pepper, which uses the cp 2102 and the chorizo which uses the ch 340. So that's enough usb to serial converters. I think uh, i'm confident that i can get usb to serial working. Let's take a look at the other package now and that's my micro controller board.

Now i might not get around to testing uh this board today, but i'll certainly do the usb to serial all right. I'm not sure why this is so much bigger a package than the other one. I suppose we're about to find out. Oh they're, quite large.

Yes, this was the one, if you remember where i put the blue led, which is down there bottom right, an 0805 on an 0603 pad and they have fitted it and it looks like it's on there. It's not a brilliant fit, but uh. Yes, i mean, i wouldn't recommend you putting the wrong component on the wrong footprint, but yeah they do seem to have had a go at that um. Oh, that's the other way around so that one's like that yeah 0805 on a no 603 footprint hilarious and looking around this a bit further, we can see the hexagonal or octagonal switch at the bottom left a mega 328p microcontroller on there.

You can fairly clearly see the 16.00 megahertz crystal with two load. Capacitors can't remember what i put on here. I think it was 22 puff this time. I think it was 15 or 12 or something uh and various other capacitors and resistors and leds, and just lots of connectors.
That's essentially what this board is well. Okay, let's do some soldering uh. I've got my usb mini b connectors here, people keep saying: why are you using mini b? Well, i've got lots of mini b cables for one thing, and also these are through hole through and through through hole for the mountings through hole for the five connections. I am working my way through the jlc pcb parts inventory.

I will switch to micro b and eventually usb c, but let's just do one thing take one step at a time, so it's uh mini b for the time being all through hole. Stick one of those on i've got a little six-way right angle: connector there, let's get them on get this tested right, iron's, warmed up. Let's get a little bit of a clean and put on this through-hole connector i'll. Do the mounting holes first, that's some solder gone into the hole.

That's some solder got into that hole now. Can i do these five connections with this particular pair of glasses? Just about, i think, that's done. Let's get the right angle! Connector on do this with the camera a little bit closer. Oh that's! Just rolled away now stay there because that's holding the connector in the right orientation.

If i do two pins, i can probably dispense with that which one's ground this one's ground. Now i think i had smaller spokes on this one. Oh, it's still quite tricky and the other connections, and there it is. It's done.

Here's my uh arduino pro mini connected to a chili pepper board. So if the connections go in the same order, five volt ground, tx, rx, dtr, rts, five volt ground, tx, rx dtr rts they do then i can just pull that off and plug it straight onto this one um. Yes, i've moved the reset. I think in the last video i tested this with dtr and that worked so this time i'll.

Do it with rts that worked on this one on the uh chili pepper. Will it work on the chorizo c, let's find out so first things. First, does it explode on plug-in uh? No, it doesn't. Power does seem to get through to this and it runs the blink sketch.

So that's good. Let's get the blink sketch up download it see. If my tx and rx lights light up, this one doesn't have a power light. I think this one did didn't it at the top.

There uh see if they light up when i download the sketch or is it upload? I can't remember so now: here's here's my blink fast sketch with 100 millisecond delays, so the led will flash fast. It was flashing, slow uh on the unit when we last looked at it. Okay, so let's um now i have to go tools. Board is a pro mini.

That's fine 5 volt atmega328p make, but the port will have changed, because this is a ch340. So i assume it's on port 4.. Let's start compiling that that will take a while. I'm going to start my other camera, the phone camera so that i capture yes compiling sketch.
Oh that's going very slow. I have to cut a big section of this out still compiling, but i think it's nearing the end of the compilation face uploading. Oh, oh and the lights flashed that looks very good and we got a fast blink, fantastic. So well that works.

Doesn't it still compiling, but i think it's nearing the end of the compilation face uploading. Oh, oh and the lights flashed that looks very good and we got a fast blink, fantastic, so well that works. Doesn't it so that works. There's the fast flashing led now that was with the reset line on rts.

I suppose we could just do it again with the reset line on dtr. It should be fine, but what i'll do is i'll, compile and install or upload the standard blink sketch, which is here so, let's upload that and compile it? Oh, that's going to be quite quick: let's watch these lights there they are um. Now you saw mostly red first and then mostly green second, and what that is is the mostly red is mostly tx. So that's the host computer uh transmitting the code into this chip.

There's the slope links that is working. Then, of course it does a verify. So that's mostly rx. So it's reading it all back and comparing it against the uh, the hex code on the pc, and then it says yes, they're they're the same and that's fine.

That's why you see some mostly tx and then mostly rx, it's a fairly short program, so they're fairly fast, but uh yeah, that's uh. Charizo c board appears to work on my pro mini, so the next thing is going to be take the pro minty. Now i haven't called it pro minty, because this is a sort of early test version just wanted to see. If i could get a cpu on a board and get it to work, the process will be we'll have to fit the 6p and i csp isp.

Sorry isp header on here program a bootloader into this chip, then i'll need to fit this 5 pin header, which is the equivalent of this connector on the pro mini that then i can connect to either the trixo or the chili pepper. Then i can install the blink sketch i'll need to put another link on, for whichever one of these leds is. The d13 led not quite sure why i put a link on the d13 led, but anyway, there. It is it's on there and see if it blinks and then i can put in the radio tower and the oled and touch board and see whether it runs uh.

Well, the normal thing that runs on this with my dual oled display it's not running at the moment because the connector goes in there and at the moment it's in there. So that's what i need to do with that, but i'll do that in the next video. I think this is all i wanted to do in this video, but yeah. I've now got my two usb to serial boards.

Cheerio.

By Julian

Youtuber, shed dweller, solar charge controller aficionado

10 thoughts on “New PCBs from JLCPCB – Chorizo and Pro Minty”
  1. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Jeffrey [Equine Sanctuary] says:

    don't bother with micro USB if it's something that gets plugged in and out a lot, or needs a solid connection. USB C would be better, even at USB 2.0 speeds.

  2. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Marcus Jenkins says:

    I was going to make a comment about how to say "chorizo", but I think there are one or two people who've beaten me to it. Not so many comments on the electronics.

    Just rename your project to "choritsoh" and you might get people back on track (geddit?) with your PCB stories.

  3. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Mikael Rosencrantz says:

    This series has really restarted my electronics interest. ๐Ÿ˜ And now when I saw that jlcpcb got aluminum PCBs I wish that you could go back to the beginning, LEDs. And make a 100*100mm PCB with as many LEDs with as high power as possible. ๐Ÿ˜๐Ÿ˜

  4. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars cs2dsb says:

    Not sure if you mentioned it and I missed it but is there any reason you left off the USB connectors? JLC have mini, micro and usb-c connectors now and they do a good job fitting them in my experience. They even do a through hole one if you want that for robustness C240850. They also do the headers C492414

  5. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Frazer Telford says:

    If you keep using the fast blink and slow blink sketch, you should export as a hex file and use cmd using avrdude that come with arduino to update, it removes the need to keep compiling the sketch and speed up the process. If you enable verbose mode in the arduino options when uploading, it tells you the command to type or you can copy/paste into CMD, just remove the -v flag after you paste it

  6. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Frazer Telford says:

    Wouldnโ€™t bother with mini b, always rip of the board if. I have a few projects that use the A to B printer type port, nothing beats a beefy connector

  7. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars lez briddon says:

    like the ch340g, always seems trustworthy with windows. only usb/serial IC to avoid is the ftdi chip, simply because after 'the dirty trick' (imho) that was 'ftdi gate' they deserve no customers.

  8. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Steve Perry says:

    Julian, You can control where they put the order number by puting "JLCJLCJLCJLC" in the location, or add a border to the pcb and they will put it on the border. Better still, panel by stamp hole and add a border, get the maximum out of the 100 x 100mm ๐Ÿ™‚
    You should calculate the value of xtal load capacitors rather than throwing in random values !

  9. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars I'm not Chuck. says:

    Here in the western colonies, we say, "cho-ree-zo" as opposed to "cho-rits-so," but that doesn't keep me from enjoying your vids. And perhaps JLCPCB would be interested to know that you convinced me to to try their assembly service despite not wanting to learn a new schematic capture and PCB layout program. I haven't gotten my first boards yet, but will comment when I do.

  10. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Dubious Engineering says:

    Hahah… a puzzling PCB!! … I do like a Spanish sausage!! You really are an incredible inventor with some fantastic support from JLPCB. I just love that you have basically designed your own micro controller PCBs!! A massive thumbs up Julian!! Keep up the great work!!!

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