PCB Prototype $2 for 10 PCBs (Any Color): https://jlcpcb.com
Another daughter board - this time for 3.5mm stereo mini jack sockets ๐ Also details on how I panelize my PCBs.
https://support.jlcpcb.com/article/49-pcb-panelization
https://jlcpcb.com/quote
Another daughter board - this time for 3.5mm stereo mini jack sockets ๐ Also details on how I panelize my PCBs.
https://support.jlcpcb.com/article/49-pcb-panelization
https://jlcpcb.com/quote
This stuff about trying to cram as much as possible into the smallest possible space is driving me nuts. Particularly when it comes to soldering through-hole components on both sides of a board. Me, I'd much rather have little breakout boards that had the RCA or phone jack on the same side as a multi-pin jack that would then connect with a cable wherever it needed to go. You might end up with boards that are a little longer, but that's not that big of a deal. We're not trying to miniaturize to the extent of hearing aids or similar, are we?
@Julian Ilett I have a question maybe you can help me out. I have a raspberry pi 3 B I have a audio amp that is connected to 5v on gpio and ground on gpio. I have the audio amp connected for audio in using the 3.5mm Jack on the rpi3 B. The audio works but it has this distortion when the rpi3 is working or when reading microsd or when CPU is working its so loud and sounds like a modem over a phone line. I have tried using a transformer to cancel the ground noise this works a little bit but not as good. I need a good circuit diagram to cancel this ground noise. I don't know where to start. I could get a ground noise filter but the space is limited. Do you have a PCB plan that can achieve this goal?
Dabs of SMD solder paste and hot air gun could do the trick.
I found that solder fits fairly well into cheap mechanical pencils, which makes soldering with the finer grades much more manageable. It does depend on the type of mechanical pencil how well it feeds, some work better than others. ๐
This is a bad design. The board layout is too cramped, you should never need to involve bending pins and pushing with a screwdriver just to assemble, never mind servicing it later, which you will need to do because you picked very flimsy failure prone mini jacks. You might say no you don't need to repair later because you have a surplus of parts because they're so cheap, but it isn't even easy to solder mere pins in a hole? You might as well have gone with a thinner PCB if you're going to have the frailty of the mini jacks, then at least soldering would be a little better.
The smaller the connector is, the higher quality it needs to be, particularly if a jack where there could be any cable strain on it.
never knew mini Jack could already have daughters ๐
Shortly after, Julian realised that there is NO WAY that two regularly obtainable mini jacks are going to fit into adjacent sockets of this spacing at the same time without fouling each other. Good thing that he now has 250 of those boards available so as to have it really rubbed in.
The solder I use doesnโt mound when I only do a little bit
"It's stiffer than I thought it'd be"
That's what she said.
FYI. I checked the PCB link and it says 2.00 for 5 pcbs. How do you get 10 pieces?
You have designed an interchangeable audio input interposer. An "iaii"???
you dont have to worry about "summing" the inputs? ie having a summing cable? the resistor bit to make sure you dont blow stuffs?
Julian, try using solder paste and your hot air gun.
You could file the pips almost as quickly, and much more safely.
Make the "pin array" holes bigger for V2.
Could you even fit 2 cables next to each other this close? ๐ I got cables with huge handles on the jacks ๐
So what will you do with the other 248? Sell them off? Never ending giveaway? Competition time?