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The 180W electronic DC load needs a 9v power supply into a USB mini-B socket. How many ways are there to provide this? The two ICs are W332 and SW6106.
Interested in my new garden workshop? Follow the entire build on Julian's Shednanigans:
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCXfDjPehpC7B7lW2JFxeS4w
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Any questions about JLCPCB or ordering, pls email support @jlcpcb.com
The 180W electronic DC load needs a 9v power supply into a USB mini-B socket. How many ways are there to provide this? The two ICs are W332 and SW6106.
Interested in my new garden workshop? Follow the entire build on Julian's Shednanigans:
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCXfDjPehpC7B7lW2JFxeS4w
Subscribed to my 2nd channel? Watch all my 3 minute videos on Julian's Shorts: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCeewzdnwcY5Q6gcbnZKIY8g
Join me on Odysee/LBRY: https://lbry.tv/$/invite/ @julian256:d
What a bloody pointless video. Besides, sending more than 5V through a USB port (without negotiation) is just ASKING to let the magic smoke out of something later on when you forget making the stupid decision.
Unless the target specifically requests a higher voltage, USB is five volts. Always. Without exception. And there's a reason for this.
"Novel ways to burn power and add wear and tear to power banks while surrounded by roaring fans to destroy your hearing and your sanity."
Maby you need to use a arduino 18650 shield and use a 5v to 9v step up. The arduino shield stay on be mindfull of that
I understand you wanted to test the USB input, but it seems a more eloquent solution would be to simply attach a micro-boost-converter to an 18650 with a barrel jack output. This would give you a 5v to 25vdc power source for many projects. The little 5w boost controllers are tiny and very cheap, and provides regulated output. Far more efficient than using linear regulators and diodes.
The simplest and most elegant solution is likely to use a LM7809 linear voltage regulator between your 12V ish shed power supply and the DC barrel jack input. You've got all the parts except maybe the 7809 which you could substitute a 7805 and a few diodes or use an LM317 and a couple of resistors. That's a lot more elegant than anything from your USB supplies. I'm sure you would have thought of this if you didn't have the racket from those loud miners interfering with your thought! 😉
Why would you subject your long time viewers to all that NOISE?!?!?! All so you can earn $0.005 of bitcoin while recording? Yet that 1/2 cent of bitcoin is costing you YT views AND likely subscribers! WHY would you think this is a good idea when subscribers told you in a previous video they are too loud? You are having to talk loader over the noise and that should have been a clue to turn them off. Sorry Julian, you know I have been a long time supporter and viewer of your channels but this is ridiculous. You are smarter than this.
Ramble, ramble, ramble… I never thought I would watch so much ramble…
The Fan noise in THE SHED gets anoying very fast…
I built a "USB-Kicker" with a 555 timer that triggered a transistor that puts a 50ohm resistor across the power rails about every 20 seconds. I got the idea from Mr.Carlson. I have a male and female USB on it and put it between low current devices and my battery packs. Works great. I wonder if it would work with the PD stuff? 555 timers should handle 12volts.
Hey I have a question for you man I have three 12 volt 9 ah/24 battery and a solar control module that's rated at 12 volt to 24 volts I would like to use a solar panel to charge all three batteries I would like to have a strong 12 volt battery how can I go about this to build my solar power generator system as well as what size solar panel would it take to charge this up oh and another thing do I need a inverter a solar inverter?
Constant power supply, editing! You are very thorough and informative!