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All cells balanced in this 10-cell (5S) Parkside power tool battery.
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All cells balanced in this 10-cell (5S) Parkside power tool battery.
Good morning, all this is uh from lidl. It's a parkside, 20 volt battery for amp power. This is for their 20 volt power tools. Now this one has cell balancing so we'll open that up.
Take a look at the cell balancing circuitry and compare it with the 12 volt battery, which is a 3 cell. This is a 5 cell. Well, it's 10 cells actually 5 across the top 5 across the bottom, but i'm just going to show you some footage. I took in the little store because there is a huge variety of the two amp hour and the four amp hour batteries, and particularly the chargers, take a look at this 2m power batteries: pac 20a1, no cell, balancing pat 20 b1, which does have cell balancing 4 Amp power batteries, pap 20, b3, with cell balancing and up here, pat 20 a3 without cell balancing and battery chargers, plg 20 a1, which is 2.4 amps.
Here we've got plg 20 a4 2.4 amps, and here we've got plg 20b, one which can do 4.5 amps. If it's got the bigger battery, that's a confusing array of stuff, if you're not sure what you're looking for. So, it looks to me like they're, throwing in some of the older uh non-balanced batteries at the same price, um just hoping to clear old stock. I suppose for people who don't really care about this sort of thing, i do, though, anyway, let's get this thing open and um.
Oh, that needs to come out and take a look at how the cell balancing works. Now, just comparing the previous uh 4 amp power battery with this one tall, intense purposes, they look identical. We've just got the a3 indicator there and b3 on the new one. Okay looks like torque screws.
So let's get this uh. This is interesting. Look they're calling it 4 amp hours, 20 volts 80 watt hours, but of course, 80 watt hours. Um is multiplying 20 volts by 4 amp hours.
Well, these cells don't stay at 20 volts for very long. They really should be doing it at um, 3.7 times 5. Not 4 volts times 5. So it's a little bit cheeky right.
Screws are out uh. How easily does this thing come apart? Oh very easily, indeed i'll just take the spring. Oh no! That's fitted on there quite well um! Oh, that's a fuse! Isn't it with the hole cut in the strip of metal? And oh look at that? It looks like the little uh tester board. The state of charge indicator is on a connector now seems remember.
These were quite difficult to get apart on the previous version. I'll just have to watch back a video. Well, this little board is extremely neat. There are two little studs uh going through the ball, but that just is on a four pin.
Connector, that's really really nicely done. In fact, i'm gon na open the old battery just to compare how it was done on that previous one. Yes in the old one, it's very different, there's a pair of wires running up to a board which is up in a groove on the lid there. I seem to remember it was quite difficult to get out, so let's give that another try, yes now.
The reason this was difficult to get out is because under these illuminated covers, there's this sort of light guide, plastic, molding and the surface. Mount leds are actually sat up inside it. So to get this board out, you have to bend it away from the plastic molding and then slide it up out of these grooves. But it's really hard to do and i don't think i'm going to bother the new one is so much better. Look at that. Yes, this is just so much better done and they haven't insisted on having the oh, it's hard to see, um the plastic light guides that run up into these lenses. Well, they're, not lenses. They're just covers i'm quite so close to the pcb surface.
Mount leds they've left a sensible gap so that this slides in nice and easily it's just so much better done yeah. This shows it a bit better. You can see that sliding out without it being trapped, underneath that little bit of plastic molding so get the b3 version of this 4 amp hour battery. If for no other reason, then this wonderfully implemented state of charge indicator, i mean it's only three leds.
It's not exactly very sophisticated, but moving on to the cells. Let's have a look. So these look like they're branded parkside on one of them. You can just see the k before side uh, something 18650p 2000 milliamp hours, 3.6 volts.
They say inr, 19, stroke. 66. I'm not entirely sure what that means. Uh.
The date is 2021, 01, 16. So back in january this year - and i don't quite know what hash 4 volts means either, if indeed, that is 4v for volts. So this is a five s array: five cells in series. You can see that the top and bottom pair are simply paralleled on both sides so giving you the four thousand milliamp hour capacity right.
Let's take a look at some of the electronics, so the main chip is an lgt 8p30 they've put a blob or something on it, but you can still read through that. This is a 5 volt regulator, it's just a 78 l05 and there isn't a huge amount else on here other than these 6 pin or 5 pin, i think, they're. Oh, i can't see whether they're six or five pin, but these four here are marked c3. Now the 12 volt battery had two chips: um again of this sot.
Well, i'm not sure that it is a salt 23, because they're smaller than that, aren't they that's a sat23. So this is a smaller form factor six pin chip, but it had two of these c3 chips, so this is clearly the balancing chip, because this one's got four of them now, unlike those little cell balancing boards that have inductors on them, there are no obvious inductors On this board um, there are possibly some capacitors down here. I suppose these could be inductors but they'd be a very tiny value, but no they look like capacitors to me. So maybe this is a capacitive transfer chip, but i think it would be quite difficult to find data on this um.
There are another couple of chips here, i'll just try and get the numbers of those and these ones which are six pin. All three of them say: 72k, so do they work in conjunction with the c3s to do the balancing? These are actually five pin, there's a six pin footprint underneath them, but they only seem to have five pins. This middle pin on this side doesn't seem to be implemented, so i'm just going to open up the 12 volt cell balancing battery to see if it's got well, two of the c3s and one of the 72ks and uh. Yes, that seems to be exactly what it has a couple of these c3 chips and this one actually isn't a 72k, but it's a k72. So i don't know whether they changed the naming convention for this chip between these two batteries were made, but it seems that's the way. This works there's a k72 in this case and a couple of the c3s and then on this one. We got four of the c3s and three of the 72ks. Now this battery pack doesn't appear to have any cut off mosfets because you can trace a path from the most positive terminal here down to the positive connector and then from the negative connector through the fuse and down to the most negative terminal on the battery.
So i believe that the low voltage cut off mosfets must be in the power tools and in fact i've just opened up this sort of air blower thing, and you can see here on this board that there is a pair of mosfets down there. Let's just try and take that out yeah, so two mosfets they're, probably in parallel and some sort of eight pin chip here, which might do the voltage measuring um to cut this tool off when the battery voltage gets too low. And then i do remember when i took apart the dual 20 volt battery charger, that there was a pair of mosfets in there uh sort of back-to-back mosfets, which would of course be used as the cutoff for charging this battery. So when the terminal voltage went above a certain level, then the charger would cut it off.
So yes, it certainly looks like this 20 volt series doesn't have any of that cut off stuff in the top in the battery. It's in the tool and in the charger completely different to the 12 volt battery. Yes, here in the 12 volt battery, we've got the high current path is through these two big mosfets and the big current sense resistor. So that's ground through the current sense resistor through the two mosfets to this point here, which is p minus, so that's the negative of the pack.
Let's pull that out. Actually, oh, i can't pull that out. Yes, i can bear with me um. Yes, the negative of the pack, because um there's the negative terminal, there's the big black wire that runs up to there and then on the charging side.
We've got another pair of mosfets here, which uh the path is from ground. That's the most negative terminal of the battery through the smaller current sense resistor, through these two mosfets through these two diodes and out to this terminal here, which runs down to this t connector and that's how this battery is charged. It's charged between positive and t. There isn't actually a connector in the charger for negative, so this is the um. Well, when you charge it current flows in through positive, conventional current in through positive uh through the three cells that brings you to this ground through that current sense, resistor, and then these two mosfets and these two diodes and back out to the t terminal. That's the char, the path for charging this, but the battery has cut off both on the charging side and the discharge side, not so much in the 20 volt battery strange decision. So that's what's inside the park side. 20 volt.
This is the 4 amp hour, but they also do a 2m power power tool battery with the new uh plug-in state of charge, indicator board, which is simply wonderful and very minimal electronics, certainly no cut off stuff. Apart from this uh, this fuse, if you uh, put a direct short across the output terminals um, but with cell balancing. Now i wonder when the cell balancing takes place at all times, which is possible or is it happening when the battery is being charged uh or does it happen when it's being discharged, that's less likely, i suppose so put this back together and that just simply drops In there, it's simplicity itself to take this part and put it back together again just align the spring, with the uh release catch there and that's it. Yes, okay, let's get these screws in so 25 pounds for this 10 cell pack, that's 2 pounds.
50 per cell they're 2 amp hours and with minimal electronics in here, apart from the balance circuitry and that protective fuse, this could be the basis of building some sort of power bank um. I was just looking at these these standard spay terminals - i don't have the opposite apart from these piggyback ones, so i'm just going to bend one of these out and then you can use these to connect to these terminals. So you could build your own multi uh pack, bank of batteries using these pre-assembled things, they're they're, actually quite handy uh. It's going to see if this 24 volt bulb illuminates my pockets wires into the connectors.
Yes, it does so that's fine!.
Thanks for the heads up Julian. I needed 6*18650 cells to repair my crap Vax stick hoover, apparently non removable batteries that fail after 14 months are a consumable so not covered by warranty. Found the unbalance 4ah battery for half price in the Aylesbury branch so got one and harvested the 10 batteries. Vac fixed and 4 spare cells for my torch. Felt bad throwing away all the rest of the components but worked out a lot cheaper than buying the cells
I just picked up a Cell Balancing battery from Lidl (PAP 20 B1) with a charger PLG 20 C1 in case that had anything special for the new batteries – it was so confusing with all the different old and new stock. I think that the charger is nothing special though, as the balancing is with the battery I assume I could just use any of my old chargers, and the balancing would still work?
If you have "Kaufland" market-shop in your country -> You can buy 12V batteries for "My Project" tools with 3x 18650 >2000mAh (21A) batteries, similar/better cells as in LIDL battery-packs, but cheaper. Normal price is 10 dollars, sometimes it goes for 5 bucks. That´s 1,60 dollars for 1x 18650 cell with 21A discharge and capacity around 2100-2200mAh – I gutted them, tested them and using them for my projects. You can´t buy cells for that price anywhere else. 😀
I got 3×4 pack of these 20V packs stitched together…. This cell balancing board hopefullymake this pack a bit more safe to use (cell balance wise).
Also, the cut-off is done via an external MOSFET in the tool on the 20V packs. Essentially the two middle pins are for (C)harge and (T)ool respectively.
I've not played with using external FETs, though that'd be something to consider for my power-bank (Tho the FET would probably become the fuse, even a 50A FET with a 15A fuse would likely go first.
FYI the balancing is usually done by just having an overvoltage detect and shunt transistor across each cell. If a cell exceeds (4.2v or whatever) any extra voltage just turns into heat in the shunt transistor. This allows the charger to keep charging the stack of cells until they are all at 4.2v. This is kinda inefficient, and relies on the transistors being able to dissipate the heat (so you can't charge super fast), but it's the cheapest way to do it.
If I buy some of the 4ah and 2ah batteries with cell balancing, does it
matter which charger I get? My store has the new cell balanced 2ah and
4ah batteries but the charger is bundled with a older non balancing 2ah
battery. Is the older charger suitable for cell balanced batteries and
as its bundled with an old 2ah will it charge the new balnced 4ah?
I agree, it is confusing !
Printing cell balancing on the packs is just new marketing, perhaps to try to combat all the youtube vids saying they dont balance… I have X20v batteries from 2017 they have ALL had cell balancing from the a1's. (unlike the 12v range) my last purchase of lidl batteries was about £350's worth for a big pack build, i also commented on your original 20v 2yr old video and said that they had cell balancing but i could not identify the chip used (2017/2018 packs) as the number didnt google. parkside batteries in blue wraps are by grizzly, according to grizzlys site they source their cells from samsung, i cant verify this but in the battery groups it has been noticed that the cells charge/discharge graph do seem to follow the paths of samsung Q chemistry's. the cell balancing on this is just resistive. not capacitive, and at charge time only. balance chip handshakes with charger to switch on. as te cells are direct connected you can charge them by just throwing 20v back in but i dont know if this would activate the balancing, and i'm too lazy to test as why do that???
I have batteries from 2018 in daily use on our ebikes, still holding a good charge but they must be on their last legs by now…
the LGT8P22a is also used by anker in their power banks, i have found the chips for sale from the far east, but no data sheets.
no low volt cut offs, if you reach too low a voltage the chip throws an unrecoverable error and you will never be able to charge that battery again…no even removing all 5 cells / power wont work. been there 3 times now so that 75 quid of batteries i could no longer charge…(cells went into other projects)
if anyone wants me to strip open some old batteries for comparison let me know.
5INR19/66-2 (on the case) and INR19/66 (on the individual cell) is a standard naming scheme. INR is the cell chemistry and indicates the use of Nickel, Manganese and Cobalt, as it is common for power tools cells. 19/66 means 18650 (18/65 is also commonly found), but sleeved. To account for the size of the sleeve, 19/66 is widely used to indicate that the cells are ever so slightly larger than naked 18650 cells. It's a compliance thing.
And on a similar note, it's legal now for power tools to state the "maximum battery voltage", which is a very soft definition., hence the 20V/4Ah/80Wh on the case. This whole 18V vs. 20V naming business (same as 10,8V vs. 12V) came after this change was implemented in North America and the power tool companies lobbied for a consistent global naming scheme through their industry body, the European Power Tool Association. Until then it was the default, as it still is everywhere else apart from power tools, to use the nominal voltage as the defining value for your product. The funny thing is, while basically all of them agreed that this is a good thing for the 10,8V tools, they couldn't agree whether it's also a good idea for the 18V tools, so some did and some didn't change it to 20V.
Perfect timing! Have got the same battery on the healing bench, brand new from Lidl, for powerbank conversion. It's unexpectedly diy friendly. Since i don't have a charger, is there any chance you could have a look at comms protocol to charger and tool? How do they activate the bms? How does the bms signal individual cell voltage out of spec? What are the threshold voltages? Thanks!
Edit: current plan is to add a 5S bms board and fuseholder+fuse inside the casing (i know it already has the fuse on pcb but that is way too beefy), would seem to fit. Also to use the battery with an external additional low voltage disconnect module. If i could use the original electronics, could skip the extra bms and only use pack low disconnect.
The cells seem very well balanced initially but have not tested voltages under load. Balancing function is a bit questionable for me, would like to know more details on that. Also almost no selfdischarge so i assume bms is off or deep sleep when not in use.
I find these Lidl teardown vids very entertaining and interesting. Does Lidl compare more to our US Harbor Freight? Are they "cheap tools" that are good enough to do the job but are easily replaced when they break? Or is Lidl more like a Home Depot/Lowe's hardware store with supplies and wood then Parkside is the store brand? I know I commented to you a little bit about your home improvement shopping options back on ~S01E04 of the modular shed build. I just find it fascinating about the mundane experiences in a foreign land when you don't think about all the touristy stuff and think about how do the people live day to day and fix up their homes. I enjoy walking up and down every aisle at any store and discovering new things. Keep up this series! (side note, while watching I had the idea of taking one of cheapest chargers, removing all the charging internals, and using its housing as a battery interface for creating your own battery operated gadget, like an Lidl battery option for your vocoder)
The Post Apocalyptic Inventor made a couple of videos about converting old NiCd battery tools to Lithium, and he managed to find a cheap battery connector base that terminated in a couple of wires, which he mostly just attached to the tools and pretty much job done. It was for a well-known brand though, so I have no idea if you could find something similar for these batteries. It's possible you could find one that would fit after some minor modifications, but you'd have to compare the connectors pretty closely to find one that matches.
Because of my RC hobby background, I'm tool battry pack balancing feature ODCer just like you sir lol. I've always wondred how famous tool brands balance their battery. I know dewalt balance their battery by charger, and others do it on the battery. I want to know balancing current of each brand/ when the balaning kicks in while charging that kind of stuff. That would be very interesting video. If you don't mind to dig this tool battery balancing stuff deeper.
Dewalt and milwaukee also don't bother to put in mosfet in their battery. Maybe to deliver maximum current without voltage drop. I think that's some what american thing lol. Almost all of american tool review video have some kind of "V8 muscle car drag racing" vive. Makita has mosfet in the battery btw. Ryoby has to have it in the battery for old ryoby tool compatibility. Bosch is most fucked up because balancing aside, they don't even check individual cell voltage in low capacity battery.