Good morning, all cordless led work. Light 20 volts from lidl uh bought this a couple of days ago. It was seven pounds 99 and it's the first really of parkside incursion into the completely unnecessary work light uh market. Well, okay, i i say unnecessary, but that's probably because i've got uh, countless ryobi, 18 volt work lights and buying work.

More work lights is really unnecessary, but anyway this uh, i mean incredibly cheap. Some of those ryobi ones were expensive, 70 pounds or something like that. Seven pounds 99. uh, the only other light.

I've got that fits the 20 volt batteries or 18 volt, as they probably should be called um. Is this one which is a sort of battery topper? It also has usb outputs. Oh, i wonder if that's got a usb output, probably not um and an led there, but this one might possibly be a bit more powerful. I don't know anyway enough rambling, let's get it out of its box and see what you get for your seven pounds.

99. Oh, it's right there, no unnecessary packaging. Yes, it's just the light and this manual and there's some safety information in here, but not an unnecessarily overwhelming amount, so not a bad manual. So what does this do? Well, we've got a click on click off switch underneath a red piece of rubber that, oh that's, oh, that's got a very nice action yeah that pivots up by slightly more than 90 degrees.

Let's call it 100 degrees and there is, if i can get it out. Oh, yes, a ball joint hook on the top, so you can hang it and that moves. Oh, no! It fouls there! Oh well there. We are not perfect design, but uh.

If you don't need the hook, you can angle this right up. Marvelous, let's go and get a battery. Is the camera intelligent enough to see down into that led yeah kind of so it's a big sort of dome, yellow, led thing in there. Let's get that battery, and here are some uh stuff on the label.

20 volt, which is you uh one, led three watts 280 lumens ip20. Is that the um sort of waterproof rating? Perhaps it's not very waterproof, grizzly tools? I do like grizzly tools right battery how's the level. That's fine! Stick that on there on off. Okay, no fancy features just on and off nice circular light pattern, central hot spot kind of it's pretty good.

Actually, it's got a little bit of um yellowing at the edges, but that's not a bad light. Actually, i'm going to compare it with the um. The battery topper light, let's see what they look like side by side, i'll give this light every chance of competing um by putting it on the 4 amp hour battery. How do you switch the thing on? I can't remember there.

It is oh, it's a much broader spread light, not very bright at all. Really, yes, so the cordless work light is a lot brighter than that simple led there. That's probably one watt. This is three watts.

This handle feels like it's getting warm right there, not up at the led, i'm sure that's getting warm as well, but right there. So what do you think um constant current circuit or just a whopping great resistor, place your bets now, let's take it apart. Okay, here we go oh, why won't that come apart? Have i missed a screw? Don't you think? So? Oh no, there's actually a little clip there. Look at that fantastic! Oh! We have a capacitor in there, an electrolytic capacitor.

Now, how am i going to get this head out i'll? Be back? Oh, my savior. Look at that a little pcb with all sorts of um. Well, a constant current circuit on it, not just a whopping great resistor uh, even though this actually does seem to get quite warm right. This board isn't going to come out easily um bottom edge of the board.

There is a 78l05, i think that says up near the square, inductor top left of the pcb there's a pt4115. Now i seem to remember that that is a purpose made led driver chip, but then there's another chip there, which um eight pin chip towards the back of the board. Oh, i read the part number and i've forgotten it now, one second um! Yes, that chip is a cm 9m. 041B.

I hold out absolutely zero hope that i'll get data on that. But i'll have a look. Do you see the four pads just in front of that chip? I mean normally seeing four pads like that, would make you think. Microcontroller and those are the programming connections, sort of data clock, positive and ground.

Why do you need a microcontroller in here? There's no thermistor, so there's no over temperature thing. I've checked the manual there's no uh timeout. So i have absolutely no idea why you would need a microcontroller in a device that just regulates power down from the battery coming in here and then has a purpose-made led driver, the pt4115. Why would you need a microcontroller? I just don't get it that uh lovely action is afforded by this uh ratchety gear thing here and this nicely spring-loaded uh, hard plastic pip here nicely sprung.

That's what gives the head such a lovely action, so the red wire coming from the battery connector goes through the switch and onto the board the black wire. The far connector on the battery connector goes onto the board, but there's also this yellow wire, and it does go to the back of the board where there's a three pin device back there and this possible microcontroller. I can't remember what that terminal of the battery is. Let's take a look, oh nothing on here, other than positive and negative.

I'm going to take this apart! Well, it's this connection here next to the negative, so it's positive, something something negative! The only marking i can see on here is p minus, which is this one, so i don't really know what this one is. Why would the torch need a third wire to the battery? It's a mystery, so somebody asked me to take a look at this um. I think the questions question was in regard of changing the led. Could that be done and uh? Yes, i mean.

If you look at the data sheet for the pt4115, you can probably find where the current limit setting resistor is, and you could change that to send a different amount of current to the lamp. Of course, you've got to be mindful of these cables, although they should take an amp or so um. So, yes, you could do some modifications to this. In fact, let's take a quick look at the pt4115 data sheet and, while my printer is printing, i've managed to get this board out so we'll have a closer look at it.

So there is what i assume is the microcontroller pt4115 there's an inductor. That's in the pt4115 data sheet, so is the diode here and then there's a current programming resistor, which might be this r100. I think it may well be actually, let's look at that data sheet. So here's your led three watts: inductor 68 micro henrys.

I think that was a hundred. Wasn't it 101 yeah there's a resistor 0.13 in this application note, but the normal average output current in the led is determined by the value of the external current sense resistor rs, given by the equation i out equals 0.1 divided by rs. Now, if you dim, if you use the dim pin, then you will get a lower current. In fact, it says that the equation is valid when dim is floating or applied with voltage higher than 2.5 volts.

Actually rs sets the maximum average current, which can be adjusted to a less one, a lesser one by dimming, so yeah hoik that resistor off uh replace it with a different one to get a different current change. Your led philly boots. I don't know why you'd want to, i think, it'd be a nightmare trying to get in there and actually change the led for 7.99 you're. Getting a 3 watt led that runs off a 20 volt battery.

Isn't that good enough? So there we are, all i've got to do now is root these wires through these guides, where they were originally, they do look like they got crushed, so maybe they weren't there originally and put the two case halves back together. So there we are parkside cordless work, light a 3 watt lamp. Astonishingly, good value 7.99 runs off a 20 volt battery. What more could you ask for cheerio.