$2 for 5PCBs - order with coupon code: JLCPCBcom
Any questions about JLCPCB or ordering, pls email support @jlcpcb.com
I had these little PCBs made by JLCPCB some time ago. Now I have a need for three solar charge controllers to keep the lights on in my workshop.
PIC microcontroller programming video:
https://odysee.com/ @julian256:d/pwm5-solar-charge-controller-pic:c
PCB schematic, layouts and firmware here:
https://easyeda.com/julian256/pwm5-femto
Any questions about JLCPCB or ordering, pls email support @jlcpcb.com
I had these little PCBs made by JLCPCB some time ago. Now I have a need for three solar charge controllers to keep the lights on in my workshop.
PIC microcontroller programming video:
https://odysee.com/ @julian256:d/pwm5-solar-charge-controller-pic:c
PCB schematic, layouts and firmware here:
https://easyeda.com/julian256/pwm5-femto
👍 Danke!
👍 Thank you!
Hi Julian just wondering if this would control a wind generator it also has 100-watt panel. I think iv killed my Rutland HRS913/12 12v it feeds lead acid bank in polytunnel driving 3M LED tape? Cheer Mike R
Current capacity
Please,can you make it PDF format and code in hex file in zip form
There is a practical limit to these, small is not better, nor large.
These are so affordable that it seems like more effort to make one than to buy them.
I have a quandary.
Wind, provides variable input voltages and of course the output is low, but the current may vary.
I've not seen anything that can address this, as it's the same but backwards. I've got a boost buck, but I lose a lot of current and it's not in spec.
I've a 110v DC generator, it easily runs 12v at 5+amp, as a 'low" it's around 7v and 1.65a. it will also run (hand turned) to about 36v and 8a+
I'd imagine it would get more too, but I'm old and the tool uses was a coil induction switch that was used in the old days. But due to the power and ranges I don't come across modern devices that can cope with such a range.
Obviously a series could work, but seems like more than what's needed. I think current and volt sensing into various windings is required?
I would like to up/down cycle a UPS and TFT boards which have almost all the parts needed, it took a while to get my head around its construct as it has to be one of the more complex ones I've seen. I thought for a while it was a switched (relay) inversion for AC due to the numbers of relays and the quad series (2) banks of rectifiers. The TFT board and straight forward.
I just think wind is helpful and wanted to add this to solar, I could get a off the shelf unit, but not sure of their reliability and ranges.
Btw. Thanks for the video I was wondering how there was a modulation, or if it was preset and just variable on the resistors.
Julian… please… those wires look so thin and unhealthy… XD Please replace them and consolidate those batteries in a sensible way. 😛
Please use a lab power supply with a current limit instead of batteries that can easily put out tens of amps and destroy everything at the tiniest mistake.
Where is the circuit description? Looking at the Gate voltage generator then driving a Pchannel FET seems weird since you can turn it on by using a pull down transistor to ground and keep it off with a resistor to vbat.
Hey mate, do these CC have staged charging to suit the battery’s? Don’t forget they need a good, higher current charge occasionally to get the most out of your battery’s.
They look awesome in them little plastic boxes, great work as always ✌️
Yeah, through hole will be good enough for me
It's worth mentioning that JLCPCB have a minimum dimension between V grooves of 20mm and a panel length of 70mm, they can do less than 20mm but there will be an uneconomic engineering charge. For PCB widths less than 20mm use mouse bites instead. The 70mm panel length is so that it does not fall into the V groove machine, just add a boarder if you need to increase the length to 70mm 🙂 Minimum length of mouse bites is 5mm.
For de paneling mouse bites there are pcb nibblers available such as ebay item 252179964778 🙂
I've been following this saga for awhile, and it's the enclosure approaches that always boggle.
Dozen clear plastic "Test Tubes", $10. Yes, this makes all the wires on one side. Yes, this means "Add a rubber band to keep totally waterproof side up."
1) Cheap. 2) Can see light. 3) Much longer term waterproofing on "wet" end (than previous iterations).
If "inline" is still a "must have", clear hard tube still superior, IMNSHO.
Even of the box seems to be 100-percent sealed.. silica packs may be a good idea in the enclosure..