JLCPCB Prototype for $2(Any Color): https://jlcpcb.com
How to power my little Arduino project while it's in the shed. Most USB powerbanks switch off because they can't detect the small (65mA) current that my Arduino project is drawing. But I found a few options that work OK.
Link to my other channel - Julian's Shorts:
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCeewzdnwcY5Q6gcbnZKIY8g
How to power my little Arduino project while it's in the shed. Most USB powerbanks switch off because they can't detect the small (65mA) current that my Arduino project is drawing. But I found a few options that work OK.
Link to my other channel - Julian's Shorts:
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCeewzdnwcY5Q6gcbnZKIY8g
Counter-intuitively transmit mode on nrf24 actually uses less power than receive mode (or can, depending on application) because the transmitter can sleep between sending packets, however the receiver has to stay awake all the time to listen. While I haven't seen the code, I suspect your transmit side Arduino is polling the sensor and transmitting packets way more than it needs to, and you could probably cut power consumption hugely with some minimal software changes. Of course this might require some changes on the receive side as well since you use the ACK packets to send remote control signals.
I thought the same about those power banks but if you put the USB meter on the different USB ports and you switch the meter to show the protocol that it gets from your power bank you'll see that the protocol in most cases is different even though you can draw the same amount of amps when you have the load connected.
I learned about the different protocols because I have a similar USB meter that shows the different protocols on the second page, you should definitely try it.
Actually this tool adapter thingy does not shut off on higher load. It's your usb meter that turns off it's display when "oveloads". This adapter has properly encoded standards, and these meters check for voltages on data pins and display what standard is used, and if current drawn is bigger than in detected standard, it turns of display. You still can see red led flashing and fan spinning on 2.1A test.
Buck is typically more efficient than boost converters
If you are charging/powering your $1000 iphony, smarty phone, or skibblepad then I'd expect some decent charge control.👍
these powertool accessories seem to have money to spare in their designs and are/were probably not that cheap ?
Hello. I could sure use your insight into a couple things. Do you ever help would-be novice hobbyists?
You say it's a primitive power bank I say it's the good kind. I hate the ones that auto switch off
Very intrpesting Mr J as usual 🙂
Of course, slow changing parameters like humidity don't need continuous monitoring. Maybe it would be possible to switch off the sensor and wifi transmitter for four minutes out of 5 and use much less power? We used this technique for industrial instruments years ago
I'm using that exact USB-Adapter as my TS100 power supply, there is just enough space inside to squeeze in a DC jack with 1mm² wires soldered directly to the blade connectors on the PCB
I measure the temperature in my garage (DS18B20) and the temperature and humidity in the loft (DHT30). In each case I use a WEMOS D1R2 connected to my home wifi. For battery power in the garage I have an old car battery which after a charge gives a good supply and this can be connected to a WEMOS DC Power Shield which sits below the MCU. Input is from 7 -24V and is currently priced at £1.56. Not elegant but works well. Bob