JLCPCB Prototype for $2(Any Color): https://jlcpcb.com
A variety of solar panels used to charge the PowerOak PS5B Power Bank
Amazon UK and DE links:
http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07N423HLH?ref=myi_title_dp
http://www.amazon.de/dp/B07D14MN4Y?ref=myi_title_dp
Money Off Code:
Start Date: 04/12/2019 11:00 GMT
End Date: 30/04/2020 23:59 GMT
Tracking ID: PS5B-UK 30 MONEY OFF
Promotion ID: A3MOMMX2YUM6HJ
Claim code: POWEROAK
PowerOak PS5B Review: https://youtu.be/zRX8rPXOzBc
A variety of solar panels used to charge the PowerOak PS5B Power Bank
Amazon UK and DE links:
http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07N423HLH?ref=myi_title_dp
http://www.amazon.de/dp/B07D14MN4Y?ref=myi_title_dp
Money Off Code:
Start Date: 04/12/2019 11:00 GMT
End Date: 30/04/2020 23:59 GMT
Tracking ID: PS5B-UK 30 MONEY OFF
Promotion ID: A3MOMMX2YUM6HJ
Claim code: POWEROAK
PowerOak PS5B Review: https://youtu.be/zRX8rPXOzBc
So its not possible to overcharge it (with the 240W panel), because the unit is regulating it down by herself, right? This is cool. So you don't have to be affraid to destroy anything.
you not supposed to completely flatten then battery, will stuff it
Do you know what amp hour this battery is?
I just saw your video on the miter saw and went and looked at your videos and they have not been showing me any of your videos for like a month
H4 and MC4 are usually interchangeable and interconnect, and use the same internal bits, but they use different tools.
Hi, would you be interested in reviewing a cheap solder-less kit I'm developing? (video on my channel)
You had that tool backwards. The corners taken off the tools contact points are meant to ease the clip from front to back so the tool fits.
Those 80W panels were giving 54W each and the 100W panel gave 64W, which is 18% more. So I'd say it's 100W rating isn't too far off.
Solar panel watts (other than those from Banggood which have the Voc * Imp wattage rating which is an impossible number) are measured under factory STC (Standard Test Conditions) of 1000 watts/sq meter and panel temperature of 25C. A more reliable number for real world solar output is the NOCT rating which is taken under less perfect conditions and is about 73% of the STC rating. In testing a number of 100 watt panels from different makers, I found that the best output in backyard sun was about 75 watts.
I did have better output from some Jinko 250 watt panels which delivered 235 watts in backyard sun. Those would be the proper stuff for a large solar system.
I have a solar planning spreadsheet which takes the STC value for the solar panel(s) but also does calculations with the calculated NOCT value. My numbers are more pessimistic than the solar calculators I've seen online but the things I've designed for my own use always have the specified amount of power available.
Another busy year of gardening for Julian. 🙂
To remove MC4 connectors, I have found a pair of long nose pliers over the clip while wiggling connector works well.
I like your short videos better. Less pointless waffle. Cheers
Hi Julian, a good demo of the difference between laboratory panel specs and real life output.
You could make the frames you have your panels on elevation adjust able, with summer and winter positions.
I would be very careful when you put two panels in series, you will have some near serious open circuit voltage.
Was the solar charger happy when you connected probably more than 40V to it.
Does that power module have a simple solar charge control or a MPPT unit?
does the PS5B have a solar input? You should look up MPPT.
Julian do you get all you power from solar & wind???