Hello, this is the power! Queen Life Pro 4 100 amp hour 12.8 volts Lithium ion Phosphate deep Cycle Leisure Battery Now there's quite a lot to unpack there because um, Lithium-ion Phosphate Lifepo4 has a nominal cell voltage of 3.2 volts. So there are four cells in series inside this pack and four 3.2s are 12.8 So we know this is a 4S battery pack now 100 amp hours. We don't yet know whether this is a gross capacity or usable net capacity, but I intend to find out. Battery weight is 24.25 pounds which is 11 kilograms and the dimensions are well, it's 13 inches across there 6.77 front to back and the height is 8.43 inches now on the top.

Here we have the positive and negative connections and that's really all that you can see on this thing. It is just a sealed box with positive and negative connection. so I'll just take these uh, plastic protectors out and I've got bolts and bolt covers that go in there. Now you'll notice that it doesn't have standard domed lead acid style.

Terminals And that's because this is intended as a Leisure battery. It's not intended as an SLI starter, lighting and ignition battery so don't try using this to turn a starter motor. So 100 amp hours. This is rated for continuous discharge at 100 amps and you can also charge it at up to 100 amps.

So I was thinking how best to test this battery and so I came up with this contraption which is a couple of very heavy current straps with M8 ring terminals on there. These recesses are M8 And the bolts you get are M8 and then these two bus bars which I can plug banana plugs into and put lots of loads in there. But in the manual? um, it actually says that although the continuous discharge is 100 amps, the maximum discharge current for five seconds is actually 280 amps. So how would I test this, discharge it at 100 amps or load it up to 280 amps and exceed to that five second spec? It's all a bit over the top really.

So I thought I'd do my tests at a lower current and there's a thing in the manual here that says when the battery stops working uh voltage less than nine volts, it has a chance that the BMS has shut off for protection and you could try these various ways to get the BMS to turn back on for discharge. That is, um, cut off all the connections from the battery, leave it for 30 minutes, put a charger on it. But this one down here is interesting. Put a solar panel on it.

18 to 36 volt solar panel to charge the battery for a few minutes. So I've got this 80 watt solar panel up on the fence and I thought: if I connected that to the battery, why don't I just charge the thing fully up? It's going to take a while because these batteries are typically delivered 30 to 50 percent state of charge and then when it's fully charged using this pair of bus bars, I'll stick a couple of car headlamp bulbs on it and fully discharge this battery. and I'll put the coulomb counter on it so that I can do a full discharge test to see the actual capacity now here. I've got the supplied M8 bolts bolt covers, and I've also got these um little connectors which I can use to convert these to Banana plugs and I've got some banana plug cables.

So I've put the first meter in voltmeter mode across the battery and we have a resting voltage of about 13.1 volts. and there's something quite interesting in the manual and that's this diagram here which is state of charge and they say you can get a rough indication but they do caveat that with this is not a very precise way of doing because lithium ion phosphate has a very flat center part of the curve so it's very difficult to estimate state of charge from voltage. But going by this 13.1 volts says 40 state of charge and these batteries say they come somewhere between 30 and 50 so that sounds about right. But let's get the solar panel now connected up Now this is going to take quite a long time, this might take a couple of days.

Incidentally, I do plan to charge this until the BMS shuts off. so I'm actually planning to test the cell over voltage, cut off, then do a full discharge and measure the capacity of the battery until I get a low voltage cell cut off and then in a separate video I am planning to dismantle this battery even though the manual says don't do it but I think we'd like to see what's inside, wouldn't we right? The sun's now on the panel and pretty much on axis. although not vertically. it's on axis horizontally.

This thing's angled down really for winter and uh, yeah, we got four amps coming from that panel and the voltage is up to nearly 13.4 Okay, here's a better solution: 160 watt flexible folding solar panel which I can move around with the Sun and now I'm getting 6.2 amps and 13.36 volts. It's around 2PM Now the solar panels have been moved around with the Sun and we're still getting uh, six amps. So I think that's a cloud cloud going past and the battery is now at 13.5 volts. It's the next day and I've got the solar panel pointing towards the sun.

I'm actually getting 6.8 amps. The battery is up to 13.57 volts. Now, there's going to come a point where this flat phase of the charging finishes and it starts to shoot upwards in voltage. I'm not quite sure when it's going to be, but what I'm planning to do is go with the over voltage disconnect.

So I'm going to let the battery disconnect at 15 volts. now. 15 volts is 7.5 3.75 volts per cell, which is a little bit high for lithium ion phosphate, but not dangerously so and not if it's only for a few seconds. So yes, I'm actually going to wait for the current to drop to zero and see at what voltage that happens.

and hopefully I'll be out here to catch it on video. Now Normally, you wouldn't allow this battery to be charged to 15 volts. You would use the settings, the recommendations in the manual and there are recommendations for solar panels and a controller and they've got all sorts of numbers here. Bulk Boost These are typical for lead acid, but 14.4 14.6 if you're using a battery charger, set it somewhere between 14.2 and 14.6 and if you're using alternators or generators again, between 14.2 and 14.6 volts.

Now there's a whole section in the manual on series and parallel connections. It says limitation for connecting batteries in series four batteries and that's really to do with DC voltage. That's going to give you about 50 volts. DC If you go much higher than that, then you're starting to get to voltages which could present a danger.

They say the limitation on Parallel connection is also four batteries. That's probably more of a practical thing than any real danger. I mean most RVs or boats simply won't have space for more than four batteries in parallel. You could conceivably put more in parallel, and there's a whole section in here on how to strap the batteries in series and parallel.

Arrangements If you want to use bus bars and the gauge of wire that you should be using for these serial and parallel configurations. and of course, safety precautions. Now, if you put these batteries in series, you have to realize that they will gradually drift out of balance because although the four cells in the battery are balanced, the cells of One battery won't be balanced with the cells of another. So it says: every six months, disconnect all your batteries, put them in parallel, and leave them for what does it say? Uh, 30 minutes I Think things are moving much more quickly now.

You can see the voltage pushing up in 10 millivolt increments as I speak. So this battery is fully charged. but I am going to wait for this to push up to 15 volts to check that disconnect. So I'm expecting this voltage to accelerate now.

Still got six and a half amps coming in, but you can see that it's pushing rapidly. now. up to well. the maximum recommended for charging is 14.6 That's 7.3 has a half voltage three point.

Oh I can't think what that is. Uh, well, that's interesting I missed the current switch off because it occurred at about 14.3 volts and I wasn't expecting that. I was expecting this to push up absolutely to 14.6 and then cut off at 15.. it's cut off much earlier than that.

So what you can see now is no current flowing from the solar panel which is open circuit into the battery and the solar panels open circuit voltage which is 19.3 volts. Now, the reason this stopped charging well below its maximum voltage could be cell imbalance. if one cell has pushed very high long before the others. that could be a reason why it's cut off early.

It's the only thing I can think and of course there's nothing on the battery to to be able to check that there are no access points to the individual cells. I'm now attempting to balance the power Queen Battery now. I've been told by Power Queen that the BMS balancing current is 35 milliamps plus or minus 10 milliamps and it only occurs during charging and it happens when the cell voltage is between or above 3.525 But of course, at 3.75 the BMS shuts off charging so it'll only happen within that range. So I've set up a power supply and I've set it to 35 milliamps.

It's actually showing 47 because it's not very accurate down. At this very low end, you can see I've set it to 35 milliamps, 15 volts and the battery is drawing what's indicated as 47 milliamps. but I think there's very little resolution down at this bottom end. the battery is now at 13.58 volts and I will leave this setup um and just see how high I can get the battery voltage to go.

But at Um 35 or 47 milliamps, this is going to take quite a while now. Doing a full discharge test after attempting to balance the battery I'm not sure how successful that was, but let's do the discharge test anyway so you can see: I've got my high current rig with car headlamp bulbs. they're actually wired in series so they don't get excessively hot and bright. and I've told the Junts Tech monitor that the battery is 120 amp hours.

That means I can see how far short of Uh zero it gets to and currently it's saying it's down to 119 and the battery is at 99, so we'll take that all the way down. The little monitoring unit is independently powered actually by that power bank up there, so even when the battery cuts off, the monitoring unit will stay on some hours later and we're down to 57 amp hours now. I don't really know where it is in the sequence. It should go down to 20 amp hours because I started at 120 amp hours.

the voltage is 12.96 You might be able to guess something from that. This has been running for about oh, seven hours now I think and the voltage is pretty low 11.95 volts. It's down to 20.9 amp hours, so we're pretty close to being the full 100 amp hours, which is quite impressive considering that I think that this battery could do with some balancing. It will naturally balance over time as it's charged and discharged.

But yeah, we're about to clock over the full 100 amp hours. Okay, we've got the full 100 amp hours I Started at 120 amp hours and it's down to less now than 20 amp hours. So the battery has given us a full 100 amp hours. Not sure how much longer it's going to run for because we are down 11.6 volts and that's falling just approaching 101 amp hours.

We're down at 11.3 volts, but there's 19 amp hours remaining just dipping below 11 volts. Okay, just missed it. Got down to about 10 point four or something volts. It's now switched off and it's done almost exactly 102.

amp hours. So to sum up this power: Queen Lithium ion Phosphate battery does pretty much what it says on it. and indeed, it does deliver 100 amp hours I Measured 102 amp hours. So the next video is simply to take it apart.

Cheerio! So to sum up pretty much what it says on the tin, this power Queen Lithium-ion phosphate battery does indeed deliver 100 amp hours. In fact, I Measured 102. Um, so the next video will be to take this battery apart. But for now, Cheerio,.

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