This is the new Mk2 version of my wearable Arduino OLED remote data display.
By Julian
Youtuber, shed dweller, solar charge controller aficionado
Good morning all…
Youtuber, shed dweller, solar charge controller aficionado
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do you have some recommendations on where to get this type of code
but how did you solve the transmitting problems? is the playlist missing a video or something?
hi, whats the lipo board you are using? i assume it takes usb 5V in and charges the cell, but does it also give 5V out from the cell when not charging?
"Just for comparisons, here's a pocket watch"
You're like the James Bond of electronics.
Giday EH!
Do you know how many MAX 17043 boards could be connected on a single 3.3v Pro mini, if they connect to the I2C pins does that mean they are addressable?
I know that is an odd question but I am thinking of mounting 4 or 5 projects in the same chassis because most or all of them would go with me when I camp.
I would like to keep each as almost separate module, each its own battery, because some of the projects can drain the battery quickly, (The Phone charger and 24 LED array work light, possibly the stereo amp as well).
I occurred to me that because one of the Projects uses a pro mini, if I could attach a MAX 17043 to each battery I could see each battery's Charge on the Display.
I am going to use 3100mha LiPo bag cells each with the protected charger board you like and use a common Input power.
Unfortunately my only MAX 17043 board is in the mail.
My research so far does not say if the Max is addressable, unless I missed it.
Thanks! Later, FW.
Giday EH!
It looks like you used pins D11, D12, D13, A0, A1 on the Pro Mini for the NRF
Is it NRF6 to D11, NRF7 to D12, NRF5 to D13, NRF3 to A0, NRF4 to A1.
Or am I wrong!
The Reason I am asking is because I want to ad a 4 button matrix array to my
project #2 and your pin-out gives me the 5 digital pins I need and still have every thing else I want to add.
I am hoping to add buttons to my transceiver and use to get Data from remote sensors and turn on/off lights all wile camping!
I may do a video on it.
Thanks! Later, FW.
Any chance you know of a good fuel gauge IC for lead acid/gel batteries? It would be great to get % charged for the remote battery bank, like the MAX17043 provides for the LiPo. Looking for an IC like this for a project using a deep cycle leisure battery…
Hey Julian, I just noticed SKU129299 on Banggood, a nRF24L01 and microcontroller on one board which seems like it would be handy for a wearable that uses radio. Unfortunately it's not AVR/Arduino, it's an 8051. Just wondering if you have any experience with those.
i think a custom PCB would be a much, much more effective way of building this 🙂
You could experiment with edging PCBs using a laserprinter, there are plenty of options! 🙂
I would love to copy this, I have a Gravitech Nano Version 3.0 of Arduino do you think it would fit as well as a mini, it's pretty close to the same size as a pro mini.
Very Nice Julian! Great videos! Thank You From Fresno California USA
Not to try to derail your project, but why not use a bluetooth module on the MPPT and write an android app to display your data?
Is probably the time to learn a PCB design software (I use KiCad free and good) and build an inexpensive reflow oven so you can make your custom PCB design have the LCD on one side and on the other side all the components for all modules.
For the reflow I have an used small oven (free the control board was broken) and all it needs is a Solid state relay about 10$ an 5$ temperature sensor and a 90$ temperature controller (I use the Altec PC410) and works great.
Building two layer PCB is quite inexpensive even for prototyping.
I'm intrigued as hell to see what you're going to do with it 🙂
By gosh, that looks familiar 🙂 Very nice job on those connections.
Is wearable Mk2 using a 5v ProMini? Typically that LiPo will be declining from 4.2 to 3.x volts as it discharges. I have found my 5v ProMini runs just fine when the charge is fresh, but being rated as 5v-12v input your'e already pushing your luck with 4.2v, and it's only going down from there. I wonder if you touching it would cause voltage to be pulled down just a little too much on some important bits… hmm… but I would expect it to restart again when you let go, if that was the case.
Another thing to watch out for is that VCC on the 5v ProMini will be regulated to 5v, not 3.3v. So while it may run the RF24 just fine now (input being max 4.2v), if you gave the ProMini a little more input voltage then the radio will stop working. Just can't win huh?
For this reason I think I will be sticking to 3.3v ProMinis from now on, since they can use any input from 3.35v-12v and will have 3.3v on their VCC to use for the radio. Incidentally, the RF24 didn't seem to be any the worse off for having been subjected to 5v for a while. Unfortunately the cheapest 3.3v ProMini I can find is about $10, while the 5v Deek-Robot 5v ones are about $3.50 🙁
I also noticed that my OLED will not display anything while the FTDI adapter is still connected to the ProMini, even when it's fine on battery. Took ages backtracking my steps to isolate that one!
would not 315MHz/433MHz modules with greater ranges be better option for this single sided comm ?