eBay Links:
DC-DC 38V Digital Step-up Step-down Module Boost Buck Converter Solar Charging http://www.ebay.com/itm/-/182100998361
If this link has expired, search eBay for "38V boost buck".
R6H1 0.36" DC4.5-120V LED Voltmeter Digital Volt Meter Automobile Motorcycle Red http://www.ebay.com/itm/-/122035692380
If this link has expired, search eBay for "120V LED voltmeter".
Data sheets etc:
http://www.xlsemi.com/datasheet/xl4016%20datasheet.pdf
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Boost_converter
DC-DC 38V Digital Step-up Step-down Module Boost Buck Converter Solar Charging http://www.ebay.com/itm/-/182100998361
If this link has expired, search eBay for "38V boost buck".
R6H1 0.36" DC4.5-120V LED Voltmeter Digital Volt Meter Automobile Motorcycle Red http://www.ebay.com/itm/-/122035692380
If this link has expired, search eBay for "120V LED voltmeter".
Data sheets etc:
http://www.xlsemi.com/datasheet/xl4016%20datasheet.pdf
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Boost_converter
I was trying to find the model number so I could calibrat mine and couldn't be bothered to pick mine up yet and I found it and it's better but at some point the read out has just been off by like 2 v but it's still around right like if I'm trying to charge a lithium battery and have it set to like 4.1v that's about where it would go but it would read like 6 or 7 volts it might be time to look at a new one and there are some nice looking ones out these days
thanks for this video but since this is now old, is there anything newer to this (new version)?
i wonder how much more efficient it would be to bypass the shunt resistors and just use as a voltage boost/buck negating amperage
I just started getting into these for driving single cob leds. I am under the impression that the amps are really what dictates what these boost/bucks can do? Is this logic correct? 100w 27v cob, 14.8v battery (idx 198) and a 3505 (35v5amp) I assume that because it would take 6.6amp on the IN side that I've already exceeded the converter's 5amp capacity? Even if the OUT is 3.7a at 27v?
hey.. thx for video.. i have problem and searching for help.. my d3806's out is always open and it is not working as buck module anymore it is only boosting.. what could be caused by?
Nice idea
Great help but more on motorhome battery charging
t is most likely SEPIC (single ended primary inductor converter), It starts with a Boost stage, then decoupling capacitor, then a diode to output and second inductor to GND. The two inductors could be on the same core. SEPIC topology is driven by Boost driver (low side switch). You appear to have two switches. Had it been 4 it could have been a real 4 switch Buck-Boost.
The most interesting part is that there is a TX and RX pins on the controller …. that means that Devices mcu must be programmable/controllable from a uart !!! If only someone placed the specs to control the thing with a external mcu (arduino/D1 mini etc) … that would be a Wonderful way to have a very nice power supply that could be controlled from almost everything anywhere.
you are a teacher
excellent video thanks
i love how nicely and smoothly u explain and break down ur approach 😀 i get to learn a lot
Thank you sharing.
those converter are rated for the input .. so .. it's 6A .. at the input.. do your math.
I watched this video and had to get me one. Unfortunately the second time I tried to use it, I was trying to float charge a bike battery with CV set at 14v with CC set to 1 amp from a car battery. Everything was wired correctly and I am still not sure what happened but I let the magic smoke out. Has anyone come across a circuit diagram, I really would like to have a go at repairing It. Thanks for your very interesting videos Julian!
i purchased 1 of these only used it like 3 times before it shit itself
Hi, İ have this board, but İ need a part number, can you give me an e-mail address, İ want to send you a photo. Thank you
can u help me design 100v p channel mosfet switch