Hello I Think this is the ultimate Buck converter. but let me know what you think. So here's the Buck Box um I'll peel that off. it's made by John Tech and it's the Juntec Digital Control GC regulated Power Supply DPM 8600 It's quite big.

It's uh, 18 centimeters along the front here and it's uh, 15 centimeters that way and it's probably about eight centimeters tall. But this is a 50 amp unit. Now they do other units. they do a 5 amp and 8 Amp 16 24 and this one which is the Dpm-8650 50 amps.

input voltage is 10 to 75 volts, output voltage is 0 to 60 volts. Some monstrous great big input connectors and the output connectors are doubled up because with this being a buck converter, you're likely to be putting out more current on the output than you are on the input lower voltage. of course, on the output. There's some big chunky inductors in there.

On the other side, there is a fan, there's an on off switch, and there's also this four-way Port which says ground Ba 5 volts or you can have ground RT 5 volts. So I think that's receiving transmit I think that's uart now I Was looking at these input connectors which have these lifter type. oh that's not connected lifter type um, caged sockets and I was thinking that square section. These banana plugs are also kind of square section I wonder if that would go in there and it does.

So I think I'm going to trap a couple of these four millimeter banana plugs in this socket and use that as my connection. Uh yeah, these are fixed in pretty good. So what I want now is a DC Supply which ends in banana sockets. So I have this.

this is coming from one of the big blue Etti Power Banks It's on the 12 volt 25 amp output which I'm going to need to test the high current abilities of this so this will do. Let's make sure I get my POS and neg the right way around here. pauses up there and neg is there. so I'll switch the blue etti on and then this should power up DC subsystem on.

Okay, so there was a brief were of the fan and now this has come on and you can see that we've got nine volts and five amps as the voltage limit and current limit. This is all quite big, so I've zoomed out a bit despite my messy desk, right? I'm going to do the same thing on the output using again the square section banana plugs so that's the positive. have to drop the cage right down like so and I'll put one on the negative and then I've got these to turn banana plugs into sockets and I've got a 50 watt car headlight bulb which will create quite a good load, right? Nine volts will mean the bulb will come on quite dim. I've got a feeling the output from the power bank is about 13.2 volts something like that, so we should be able to get 12 volts out.

But nine volts, we won't be pulling 5 amps at that voltage. Press on to turn the unit on. And yeah, we're drawing 3.55 amps at 9 volts can I Just know that does load. How do I set? Yeah, Set.

Yeah, there's the nine flashing so we'll go up to 10 11. 12. So 12 volts, we're pulling 4.1 amps and that should stop flashing in a minute. We'll just press set again.

Yeah, that's it. So now 12 volts output and it's showing me the current. It's in constant voltage, so voltage limit is the green light. Um, if I made it go into well actually.

if I Set set set. if I bring this down to say 4 amps, you can now see that it's in current limit. It's pulled the voltage down in order to limit the current to 4 amps and you can see that the yellow light is on I Think just about so it's in constant current or current limit. So this is all jolly good fun.

And if I get another bulb, we can pull some extra current. Oh, that's uh. it's still currently limiting at 4 amps. so let's take the current Limit Oh It remembers the last position you edited.

That's good. So up to five, Six seven, Eight Nine amps, let's go for 10 amps. Why not? So it's now putting 12 volts out at 8.3 amps. Well, that's going to get quite hot.

So I'm going to set the voltage to Let's limit it to 9 volts again just so that these don't get too hot. But also supplied with this unit is this a remote control panel and this remote control panel is Wireless It's also battery powered, so if I switch it on I'll just peel the protector off this screen. And yes, it has talked to this and it's showing you the set voltage and current. So 9 volts and 10 amps and so this OK button is mirrored on this okay button and this is completely wireless.

There's no connection. this has, um, a DC Barrel Jack input to charge the battery that's in here. You can see a little battery symbol there. There's also a USB type B Good old-fashioned printer port connector.

so if I now press OK on here. it mirrors okay on this unit and we can see the voltage, the current and this also displays Watts It also displays the temperature inside this unit I think it is the set points um, and all sorts of other stuff. radio signal strength um, the address and channel. You can change the wireless Channel and the unit address battery level.

On this unit, it's got a timer and an amp hours counter so you just get a lot more information on here. Let's turn the lamps off again than you do on this unit, but the two are just in constant communication with each other and I think you can see the little com light there briefly flashing periodically so you know they're communicating. So yeah, this extends the functionality of this unit, which is slightly awkward to program with its four button interface. It's a lot simpler on here, so let's adjust the volts.

I'll press V now I can edit the V parameter 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15.. let's go right up to 20 volts. These bulbs will hate that switch on and of course it doesn't go to 20 volts because my input voltage is only about 13. So yes, it's gone to 13 volts, which is fine on car headlamps.

Switch that back off because it's very bright. But what this also has is it has settings for limits: a lower limit below which you can't edit the voltage and current parameters, and an upper limit. So say I was putting 50 volts into this thing and that would definitely blow my output I Want it to allow myself voltage control but within limits? This allows you to set those lower and upper limits. So if I go into set.

So parameter number one is load Save hours and down Powers Clear. So actually I might as well run that. Okay, run that. resets these uh two counters down here which are counting up hours and amp hours.

Um, what else can we set Set number four is address. number five is channel. Quick response. Not entirely sure what that is yet.

Auto Output: You can get this thing to automatically come on when it receives power or you can get it to switch on in. its off State Uh, upper limit settings. So I will set that and lower limit setting. Let's just do the upper limit setting.

So let's press V to edit the voltage field. I'll set that down to 12. then I'll press set for the upper limit setting I'll okay that and run that and that sets my maximum voltage to 12 volts. Now let's go set.

next parameter is lower limit setting I don't want to run that yet so we'll go to V Set that, say to 10 volts, go to set, go into the lower limit setting and run that. So now my voltage absolute limits are 10 and 12 volts. And now if I go into oh V I can't take it above 12 volts and I can't take it below 10 volts because 10 volt says Min simply won't go below that and 12 volts. it simply won't go above that.

It says Max I can have 11 volts if I want. So now if I switch it on with the OK button I can work within safe limits of 10 volts, 11 volts, 12 volts, and I can't go outside of those two parameters. and I've also set upper and lower parameters on the amp field. And because I set them both to the same 10 amps, it actually says lock.

So I simply now can't adjust the amp field because it's locked at 10 amps simply because my lower limit is 10 amps and my upper limit is also 10 amps. And uh, here, parameter 10 is limit reset. So if I okay that and run parameter 10, it just takes away these voltage and current limits. We'll just look at the rest of the parameter setting brightness for this display.

Auto Power Off! I Think that's auto power off of this display or this controller. I should say language English or Chinese restore to default settings Completely resets all of the memories I think and that sort of thing and there's an about page. If I run that, you just get an about page. Uh, doesn't give you the firmware version, but it does give you the website.

So once I've set my vaults, let's set it to 9 volts and I've set my amps. let's set it to 5 amps and I've switched on my output. Oh, that's coming on very slowly. Then I can actually switch this controller off.

This controller only needs to be on for either monitoring of volts, amps and watts, or changing parameters. If you're not doing either of those two things. yeah, you can just switch it off. So is that or is that not the ultimate butt converter? Up to 75 volts in up to 60 volts out up to 50 amps with its own little wireless remote controller for monitoring and also setting this unit.

thus not having to use this four button interface. Is that the ultimate Buck converter I think it probably is now. Also supplied are these two cables you've got USB type A to Barrel Jack and that's for plugging in there and charging up the little battery that's in here. We'll have to have another video where I take this stuff apart.

Um, there's also this one which is USB to what looks like four wires which I think goes into that connector on the end. This is probably a uart in here and so with a suitable program on your PC you could receive data from the main unit. and there is talk in the manual about Modbus I don't know anything about Modbus. if you do, you can do Modbus.

So I will come back to this and do another video because I want to do tear Downs of the main unit and the controller. There's also parameter number six on here which is called quick response I Thought it would be the rate at which the output voltage comes up doesn't appear to be. There is also a parameter on here I Think If you press and hold this, you go into all these parameters. That's for default settings.

that's whether the output comes on when you power it on. These are all setable here as well, but there's this one number four called Fast Discharge. Now is this the same as Quick Response Does this rapidly discharge the output if there's no load on there I Don't know I will have to come back to all this stuff. So yeah.

I Just think this has to be the ultimate Buck converter. Um, the the sheer input, voltage and output voltage and the current rating and this little um wireless controller I mean what do you think? Do you think this is the ultimate Cheerio?.