The PIC12F675 Demo Board has a few issues. One of these, related to the 13v programming voltage requires a harware mod - a track cut and a link wire on the underside of the PCB. Also, the LEDs have been wired to light up with a logic zero - crazy negative logic. And check out my "sleeping beauty" flashing LED program which uses the MCUs watchdog timer to wake it from sleep. Poetry!
http://ww1.microchip.com/downloads/en/DeviceDoc/31028a.pdf
http://ww1.microchip.com/downloads/en/DeviceDoc/31028a.pdf
How about redoing these with pic-as in the new mplabx?
The code you show is not complete. The section with the equ statements are not there. I can't get this one to work.
At the end both leds were blinking.
I found this video most useful. Thank you. Having purchased this board after watching many of your videos I forgot about the mod. Getting very frustrated with the intermittent nature and having to build a different board to get my programming working and no faults ( getting sick of recalibration get the chip) but I'm have some fun learning assembly programming. Enjoying your videos very much. Thank you.
While it's not the case with PICs, often with other chips, maximum sink current vs maximum source current are different. And quite often you can run more current through by sinking the GPIO. That's why LEDs are often "reversed". While it's counter-logical to set bit 0 to get the LED to light up, by my experience, it's quite common. (PIC12F675 max for both ways is equal 25mA)
Thanks for testing the chinese pickit2. I was terrified that pickit2 will disappear and I'll finally succeed killing mine and I'll never be able to get one. I just got my chinese clone and I'm happy to use it without fear that it may burn to ashes.
Btw something strange happened. when I first connected it "target" led started blinking. After starting the standalone software it stopped and never did that again. Strange!
Don't forget to make a tutorial of calibrating PICKit2.
So looking forward to the PIC programming tutorials. Thank you!
Just a quick tip, I have always used a simple 1N4148 diode on the /MCLR pin in my projects and have never had a problem programming a chip. You really don't need a schottky . All it's there for is, as you said, to keep Vpp feeding back into Vdd through the pull-up resistor as it could potentially cause the problem you were having or damage your power supply if you are using a separate power supply to power the board.
What's annoying me is that tiny blob of solder on the trimmer pot. 😀
Julian,
I'm looking forward to the series but it strikes me that PIC are a little dated given the developments in Arduino and the various IoT devices currently available. Apart from the academic interest of us geeks out here, do PIC devices still have a place? Normally we see something similar in little epoxy blobs when someone does a tear down but in anything of DIL size 8 or above why not use an Arduino?
Kind regards, Alan
How you guys can figure this stuff out and make sense of it just amazes me. Gives me hope. At least I've gotten to the point I can watch this and sort of comprehend it.
I think the original JST connector would work OK with the extension cable your clone Pickit 2 or 3 came with.
I love the pace of your videos and how well you are at explaining things.
I did find the tiny solder blob on the trimpot annoying though. 🙂
Almost simpler to build on perf board?
Thank you Squire
I think I will give it a shot and tag along! 🙂